Mabel’s: New Café in Colby, Kansas

I must do one more Kansas post before I’m done with the state for now. I must. I know you’re thinking, Beth, get over your obsession with this incredibly flat, dull state. So here’s a newsflash: Eastern Colorado is flatter than Kansas. It takes all the strength of mind I have to drive through eastern Colorado without screaming the entire way just to stay awake. Without a frost to turn the ground silver, or some great clouds, driving eastern Colorado along I-70 is a snooze.

Western Kansas is also flatter than the rest of Kansas, but at least it has Goodland and a giant reproduction of a Van Gogh painting by Canadian artist Cameron Cross.

Kansas photos, Kansas tourism, Beth Partin's photosKansas photos, Kansas tourism, Beth Partin's photos

And Colby.

I last left you after a whirlwind tour through the Prairie Museum of Art and History in Colby. When I was done photographing Barbies, and they had turned off the lights again, I asked for some dinner recommendations. First they offered some of the fast food joints along the highway, but when I persisted, they mentioned a new place in downtown Colby: Mabel’s.

Colby restaurants, Kansas tourism, Beth Partin's photosThe day I ate dinner, Mabel’s had been open two days. My server said they had been packed for lunch. And it’s no wonder. In the four blocks that radiate outward from the center of downtown, you can find B Hive Bar & Grill, Salads and Subs, two jewelry stores, three furniture stores, a hospice, Wings upon the Prairie (social services), Stock Realty and Auction, and an art gallery. Perhaps Colby is a kind of urban hub in western Kansas.

Downtown Colby needs Mabel’s, and I needed dinner, so everyone was happy. I ordered the Indian taco, which was good, if a bit different from what I’ve had in the Four Corners area. Colby restaurants, Mabel's, Indian taco, Beth Partin's photosIt came on a fried flour tortilla instead of frybread, the beans were refried, not whole, and I’m pretty sure the salsa was Pace. The tortilla was crispy on the outside and soft inside, and I liked the radishes and purple cabbage. (If I had taken this photo after Saturday’s food photography class, I would have rearranged the lettuce so that you could actually see the ground beef.) The server told me that was the first Indian taco they’d served. I guess the standard American fare on the menu is more popular.

My server was a good saleswoman, convincing me to order coconut cream pie, which had very, very fluffy meringue. As you can see, the cream was a bit runny, and the crust was a little hard, but I liked it because it was not too sweet. Apparently the cook makes everything in Mabel’s from scratch but has no dessert plates.

Mabel’s is definitely worth checking out. I wish the owners the best of luck, and I hope that downtown Colby sprouts more locally owned restaurants.

Museums to Mousse in Hays, KS

My day of museums in Hays began in a leisurely fashion, with the continental breakfast at the Day’s Inn. I took my time heading to downtown Hays and arrived just in time for lunch, which I had at Café Semolino Coffee and Eatery.Hays Semolino exterior Nov 2009Hays Semolino Veganini Nov 2009

Semolino is a comfy place to have lunch (Veganini on ciabatta with 3 cheeses, peppers, and pesto mayo) and hang out. Between the pastries at Semolino and the old-fashioned fountain drinks at the Soda Shoppe, you need never have a sugar low in Hays.

That afternoon I explored the Ellis County Historical Society Museum, housed in 2 churches, the First Presbyterian Church (1879) and the Presbyterian Church (1922). Hays ECHM (Ellis County Hist Museum) front view Kansas Nov 2009The Stone Chapel, as the first one is nicknamed, is lined with rectangular pressboard interiors dating from the 1940s. The main museum fills every inch of the newer church, including an activity area for kids in the balcony with a tiny one-room schoolhouse and a 125-year-old wooden rocking horse. If you think schools are full of mayhem these days, imagine being in school with people of all ages, some of whom are copying their lessons while others recite at the front of the room.

The museum proper begins with an exhibit of 500 arrowheads, an object in which land (where they’re found) and people (those who made or find them) intersect. In the late 1800s, the people included the Kansa tribe (People of the South Wind), the Pawnee, who made sod houses and presumably taught that skill to settlers, and the Kiowa, who migrated from the Black Hills of South Dakota in the 1870s.

There’s a lot in these first exhibits about Indian atrocities, but nothing about white treatment of Indians. I guess if you wanted the latter, you could try the Smoky Hill Museum in Salina. I did learn that Custer’s wife traveled to camp with him, and that the man who saved the buffalo from extinction, James “Scotty” Philip of Fort Pierre, South Dakota, had 2 brothers in Ellis County, Kansas. And I noticed that many of the nineteenth-century characters had awfully good hair: thick flowing locks and wonderfully tortured mustaches.Hays ECHM Wild Bill Hickok Nov 2009

Well-known characters of the West, such as Wild Bill Hickok and Buffalo Bill Cody, appear next to headings like “Boot Hill—Hangings—Shootings and Sheriffs.” Hays disputes Dodge City’s claim to have raised (or deep-sixed?) the original Boot Hill, reminding everyone that its cemetery was “populated” as early as 1867, 5 years before Dodge City denizens died with their boots on (that is, not in bed).

At times I thought the Ellis County Museum was a bit low-rent, perhaps because its exhibits remind me of something from a science fair or exposition. It’s mostly in one big room Hays ECHM interior 8 overview Nov 2009instead of a house, where different classes of items could inhabit separate rooms. But the room made up as a saloon (perhaps an entryway or side altar in the 1922 church?) intrigued me, as did the exhibit of clocks built by Justus Bissing, Jr., a prominent local citizen. One clock took 7 kinds of wood. Bissing’s brother, Peter, invented a musical instrument called the dulcette, a combination of piano and harp that is one of several musical instruments featured here.

Hays ECHM interior 6 Justus Bissing Jr clocks Nov 2009History buffs will enjoy the exhibits on the Volga Germans, who were invited by Catherine the Great to settle in Russia (hence their name) but left when the government reneged on its promise that they would never be drafted. Volga Germans built the Cathedral of the Plains in Victoria, Kansas, east of Hays.

The museum wasn’t all about men, however. “At Home on the Farm” describes the lives of women on the High Plains. Near the exit I learned that Kathryn O’Loughlin-McCarthy, a lawyer, was the first woman elected to Congress from Kansas (1932). She defended female inmates from abuse and helped put a number of young people through college.Hays ECHM interior 7 dulcette Nov 2009

It was 4 o’clock before I finished touring the Ellis County Historical Museum, and I still wanted to visit the Sternberg Museum of Natural History. Luckily, it stays open until 6, so I had plenty of time.

The Sternberg, part of Fort Hays State University, is housed in an institutional building near I-70 that used to be called the Metroplex and is surrounded by ostentatious new housing. George F. Sternberg was a fossil collector who specialized in fossils from Cretaceous Sea deposits in Kansas, such as the fish-within-a-fish.

After spending so much time reading at the previous museum, it was nice to just look at creatures like this mosasaur.

Hays Sternberg Museum Mosasaur Nov 2009The Sternberg Museum looks square on the outside, but inside the exhibits fit into two large circles, on the second and third floors. Halfway ’round the second-floor circle, I entered miscellany: Egyptian jewelry, a shrunken head, Indian artifacts, a coal-oil lamp, Russian peasant shoes for men and women, a Japanese toothbrush, and furniture and guns and swords and a dire wolf skeleton. Beyond that, I crept through the gallery of pissed-off stuffed animals, some of whom seemed to be guarding their territory. Still.Hays Sternberg Museum stuffed wildlife Nov 2009

Then I passed through the African dioramas into the Hansen Gallery, in the center of the museum. There Robert Lindholm’s photographs played off Charles A. Lindbergh’s quotes from Autobiography of Values and other books. After a day of museum-going, it was all too demanding for me, but I did like this quote: “Wilderness created man, his intellect and his awareness together, in the first place.” And I noted a picture of one of the mittens from Monument Valley.

Switch to the third floor, where I walked through dinosaur dioramas. Hays Sternberg Museum dinosaurs flying Nov 2009The Tyrannosaurus Rex turned its head when I walked by, startling me. Hays Sternberg Museum T Rex head turning Nov 2009On a second pass, I noticed a small dinosaur chewing. Finally I explored the Discovery Room, designed, liked the rest of the museum, for the kid in all of us. I especially liked Howie the Iguana, one of several animals in aquariums.

***

As you might imagine, all this touring made me hungry. That’s why I was especially glad to stop in at Gella’s Diner, Hays Gella's Diner exterior Nov 2009next door to Lb. Brewing Company in downtown Hays. I thought Gella’s menu was pretty amazing. It has local German dishes such as sauerkraut soup and smothered bierock (like a calzone), as well as pork pibil tacos and sunflower seed pesto and wild-caught Pacific salmon cakes. I ordered the latter, along with macaroni and cheese and creamed spinach. The spinach was silky and tasted of bacon and onions, the mac was just fine, and the salmon cakes were crisp with a mild flavor. The leftovers made a hearty lunch the next day.

Hays Gella's Diner salmon cakes mac spinach Nov 2009Although I was the only woman in the brewery for most of dinner and felt a bit uncomfortable, I didn’t mind too much because my waitress was so good. And even though I’m not much of a beer drinker, I was entranced by the tall iced beer stein she carried to another table. I tried a 75 cent sample of the amber, but the sample I really liked was the oatmeal stout, which was perfect with the chocolate mousse topped with 1.5 inches of whipped cream in a champagne glass.

Do You Like Ike?

I visited Abilene to go to the Eisenhower Museum and Presidential Library.Eisenhower Museum seen through library entrance Abilene Nov 2009 When I think of Dwight David Eisenhower, I think first of termination and relocation, the Indian policy that was designed to move Indians from the reservation into urban life. It affected (afflicted?) a few tribes and was generally considered a failure by the 1960s, but I don’t believe the policy was reversed until the 1970s.

And when I think of Eisenhower, I think of his command of Allied Forces in Europe during World War II and of NATO after the war. The other day, just as I was pondering what to write in this post, I came across this New York Times opinion, “How World  War II Wasn’t Won.” David P. Colley essentially blames Eisenhower for the Battle of the Bulge. Anyone out there agree? Disagree?

At Ike’s museum (much smaller than the library and in need of expansion, I think), I discovered his personal life. When he was courting Mamie Geneva Doud in 1915–1916 at Fort Sam Houston, Abilene Ike and Mamie Nov 2009Pancho Villa was raiding along the border. About 3 years earlier he had graduated from West Point, which he attended to get a free education and where he got lots of demerits.

As far as I could tell from the exhibits about his military career, he never saw combat until after he became a general in 1941. He was valued for his organizational and leadership skills.

Making sense of history, even the small slice of history presented in this one museum, is like braiding together several hanging threads. There’s the thread of the Mamie Doud Eisenhower Library in Broomfield, where I live. There’s the thread of her hats, Abilene Ike's museum Mamie's hats Nov 2009which remind me of my grandmother, Dode. There’s the fact that Mamie attended a finishing school in Denver.

Those details are unimportant to anyone but me—they help me place her history in the context of my life and thus help me remember it.

I went to the museum twice, late Sunday afternoon and Monday morning. Even so, I couldn’t manage to absorb it all. I watched a film about D-Day that made me cry. I discovered that Eisenhower built the interstate system Abilene Ike's museum Interstate exhibit Nov 2009in part because of a work-related trip he took across the United States after World War I. He said then that the roads needed improvement.

When I think of the interstate system, I think of how it encouraged the car culture and sprawl and discouraged the use of public transportation. I think of how it damaged the economies of small towns, many of whom are struggling to come back now. And, of course, I think of how I use it on a regular basis. It’s good to know that it was a response to the bad roads of interwar America.

A few more random notes from the museum:

1. Mamie like to stay in bed all morning, reading and writing letters.

2. Eisenhower was elected president at age 63. He had a heart attack and stroke while in office.

3. Abilene is located at the confluence of the Smoky Hill River and Turkey Creek. Until 1860, the area was a hunting ground for various Indian tribes.

4. As part of the exhibit, “Ike’s Abilene, 1890–1910,” you can hear him telling stories. His voice is slow and gravelly.

5. Ike and Patton visited Gotha concentration camp after the end of the war in Europe. That part of the exhibit mentions the deaths of 11 million Jews. (At least, that’s what I wrote down. Perhaps that number also included Russian prisoners of war, for example.)

6. Eisenhower founded People to People, an ambassador program for ordinary people. The museum said it was headquartered in Kansas City, but the website gives an address in Spokane, Washington.

***

After I left the museum Monday, I ate lunch at Kirby House in downtown Abilene. Abilene Kirby House exterior Nov 2009Although Abilene’s downtown is smaller and less nice than Salina’s just a few miles to the west, it seems more real. Abilene downtown WB Auto adjusted Nov 2009It has more shops that cater to people’s everyday needs instead of a bunch of cutesy tourist traps.

I was delighted to learn about Rivendell Bookstore, but it was closed.Abilene Rivendell bookstore Nov 2009

Kirby House is on 3rd Street, a block off the main drag. It’s beautiful from the outside and quite a sight on the inside. I assume it has been restored to approximate the period (1885), so all I can say about the room in which I ate lunchAbilene Kirby House room 1 Nov 2009 is that it puts the Brown Palace in Denver to shame. Perhaps the crazy patterns motivated the couple next to me to blather all through my lunch. Finally I got up to take pictures in self-defense.

I had vegetarian quiche (sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, Swiss cheese) with a salad and coconut-walnut bread. Abilene Kirby House salad and quiche Nov 2009The bread was toasted and had a slightly sweet flavor, as did the celery seed dressing on the salad. If you want a light(er) meal, I recommend the Kirby House. There aren’t too many other places to eat in Abilene: the Brookville Hotel, near the Holiday Inn Express north of I-70, has been serving family-style chicken since 1915, and Mr. K’s Farmhouse offers such entrees as chicken fried steak, stir-fry, pan-fried catfish, and jumbo fantail shrimp.

***

Besides the Eisenhower complex, Abilene offers the C. W. Parker Carousel, Lebold and Seelye Mansions, American Indian Art Center (quite small from the outside), Abilene and Smoky Valley Railroad (3 months of the year), and several other museums. The Museum of Independent Telephony closed just as I got there at 3, so I tried the Greyhound Hall of Fame instead.Abilene Greyhound Hall of Fame exterior Nov 2009

The Talented Mr. Ripley was old and didn’t much enjoy being petted, despite the ads encouraging me to do just that. Abilene Greyhound Mr Ripley Nov 2009I had mixed feelings about this museum, mostly because of the annoying video that played endlessly while I was trying to enjoy the exhibits in the central hall.

If you’re a fan of greyhounds, however, by all means visit. The woman at the front desk said Mr. Ripley is more energetic and friendly in the mornings, and the other dog was comfortable with visitors. After watching a film, you can peruse the historical panels Abilene Greyhound skeleton Nov 2009and find your favorite racer in the hall of fame.

I didn’t know, for example, that greyhounds were one of the first dogs to be selectively bred (as sight hounds), or that the Celts sacked Delphi in 600 BC (from the discussion of Irish wolfhounds), or that greyhounds could be owned only by the rich at certain points in history, or that there are two greyhound tracks along the front range (Cloverleaf Kennel Club in Loveland and Mile High–Wembley Park in Commerce City).

Sometimes I wonder why I seek out these tiny museums. Inevitably, all the minutiae fritzes my brain, but then the next one entices me. I suppose it’s the joy of discovery—each museum, even the last in a long string of tiny historical museums, has something I can’t find anywhere else.

Perhaps it has to do with getting older, and watching my father age, and realizing that no matter how many of his stories I write down, I will never know the entirety of his life. I can’t even remember my entire life. Perhaps postmodernism was right to privilege ludic deconstruction over summation, wholeness, the real story. So I go to these museums and look for some fact that makes me smile.

That’s a Virgo’s idea of play.