A Substantial Meal at Black Pearl

When we ate at Black Pearl Sunday night in Denver’s South Pearl/Platt Park neighborhood, we sat by the garage-style window, right by the sidewalk. Had anyone been sitting at the tables below us, we could have eavesdropped. Or leapt onto the sidewalk without much effort. The rain probably discouraged anyone from sitting there, but it didn’t come in the window.

Black Pearl is an elegant space, and all the staff were attentive, though I wish our waiter had been a little less formal. Denver restaurants, South Pearl Denver restaurants, New American cuisine Denver

We could have made a meal of our appetizers. The 6 Eagle Rock oysters from Washington State were silky and dressed in a tarragon mignonette, though I tasted more paprika than tarragon. West Coast oysters; Denver restaurantsThey were delightfully tart and a little spicy. Todd ordered the grilled romaine salad, which was peppery and smoky and grilled just the right amount, which is to say that the greens still had some texture. The dressing was rich, perhaps even gooey, but it seemed appropriate. We couldn’t stop eating the truffle fries, which were encrusted with parmesan and were good even when cool, although the herb aioli was bland.truffle fries, Denver restaurants, New American cuisine

Todd loves scallops, so he couldn’t pass up that entree, which came with a sweet corn crème fraîche sauce, shaved snap peas, and black truffles. I tasted only the scallops, which were perfectly sautéed. scallops, Denver South Pearl restaurantsMy entree, the piquillo peppers stuffed with wild mushrooms and Gruyere, was more substantial, less pretty than Todd’s but more interesting. Overall it was smoky because of the poblano chili oil, and the stuffing was moist rather than cheesy, but the jalapeño added bite and both it and the cauliflower contributed some crispness—though not quite enough.

If I hadn’t been so full from all the rich, smoky food, I would have ordered the drunken pear and chocolate mousse. Or the lemon meringue tartlet with thyme chocolate ganache. Next time.

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Café Kranzler: New American Cuisine on Padre Island

Open since July on South Padre Island, Café Kranzler is almost perfect. The outside is unassuming, like most of the buildings along the strip between the Gulf of Mexico and the uber-salty Laguna Madre.South Padre restaurants, Texas restaurants, Beth Partin's photos The inside, with its pale green walls and awning over one row of seats, had a European ambiance that reminded me of Indulge Bistro in Denver. The ceiling descended into strange round light features. (I’m sure there’s a name for them, but I don’t know it.) Speakers played light jazz, which seemed incongruous; I think I was expecting marches.

On the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, there were two servers and two tables being served. I liked the heavy plastic water glasses and the grilled bread brushed with oil. The seared scallops combined nicely with small pieces of grapefruit and pearl onion, but it was easy for the flavor of the latter to dominate.Beth Partin's photos, South Padre restaurants, Texas restaurants, Rio Grande Valley restaurants

Our entrees came too quickly, probably because the cook had too little to do. My cioppino broth was a balanced blend of tomato and vegetable stock and pernod, just a bit spicy. I could have slurped it up all day. Never having tried cioppino before, I didn’t know if the abundance of seafood was typical. I would have been satisfied with half as much, but I was able to take home 6 pieces of seafood for a snack after Thanksgiving dinner the next day. The seafood itself made a study in texture, with firm ahi, shrimp a bit overdone, and soft scallops and mussels.New American cuisine, South Padre Island restaurants, Texas restaurants

Todd’s lobster mandoria, with shrimp and lobster in a parmsan truffle cream sauce, was sophisticated comfort seafood. Usually I order that kind of dish, and he orders something more like the cioppino, but we had switched tastes for the evening, I guess.South Padre Island, Texas restaurants, Beth Partin's photos

We took a while to decide, in fact, because everything on the menu sounded good. I wasn’t really in the mood for wiener schnitzel (the only truly European entree), but I could have ordered the salmon picatta with mascarpone mashed potatoes or the pork tenderloin messicani with polenta cakes.

We couldn’t pass up the tiramisu, Todd’s favorite dessert. I’ve never had it served this way before. Beth Partin's photos, South Padre restaurants, Texas restaurantsI wish I had cut into it before taking a picture: the filling is what Cool Whip would love to be when it grows up. The ladyfingers were soft with rum and crunchy with sugar.

Café Kranzler’s founder used to own the amusement park on Padre Island. She came here from Germany 40 years ago, and this restaurant is her labor of love. It’s open for breakfast as well, and the menu looked good, but we went to Yummies again instead.
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