Not a Complete Oyster Virgin

My food critic friend Denveater loves oysters, and I’ve been bugging her to take me out and introduce me to some. Sunday night we stopped briefly at Ocean Prime in Larimer Square but decamped when we discovered they served 1 type of oyster. One seated at the bar at Oceanaire, we ordered a happy hour chef’s choice plate of 8 oysters. Some of the oysters on the menu were new even to her, which made me happy.

As we waited for our first dish to appear, I made a fateful decision: I would take my photos without flash, in order to avoid having blindingly white plates in my pictures. All the pictures in this post were taken at 6400 ISO, mostly because I could. But then I had to go home and unleash Noise Ninja on them. As I was editing them, I thought, “Why am I taking pictures at such a high ISO, then using Noise Ninja to remove noise, and then sharpening them? It’s silly.”Beth Partin's photos, downtown Denver, Oceanaire

First up, Chef Creek from British Columbia. As Denveater said of West Coast oysters, it was a bit sweet, mild with just a touch of brininess. The Riptide, from Massachusetts, was my favorite of the four types. It was saltier and had a more robust flavor. It’s also prettier, though I don’t know why that should matter.adventures in photography, Noise Ninja, Beth Partin's photosThe second East Coast oyster came next: Alpine Bay from Prince Edward Island (shades of Anne of Green Gables!). It was less salty than Riptide but definitely had more grit. I liked it too.The Nootka Sound oysters, again from British Columbia, were my least favorite, with a less distinctive taste. After all, if you’re going to toss something rather slimy down your throat, it should have some flavor. Denveater thought the Nootka were a little chewy.

Of course, we didn’t stop with oysters; we took full advantage of the happy hour food and wine menu. We started with deep-fried asparagus, which were a little undercooked. Then we moved on to beef sliders, soft and oniony.

It may have been lowbrow, but I wanted to try the cornmeal-friend oysters and fries. Apparently, Sunday is no-carb-left-behind day.We finished up with friend green beans, which were perfectly cooked. The bacon-flavored aioli was just spicy enough. I’d give them the prize for best snack, though the fried oysters were good too; I especially liked the textural contrast. This was my second meal at Oceanaire. I went there two years ago for Denver restaurant week and enjoyed the food and drinks then as well.
Oceanaire Seafood Room on Urbanspoon

Desserts in All Their Guises

It’s January, the time of year when I usually feel like losing a few pounds (and that phase of the year lasts until the summer). It’s only the first day of my diet, and already I feel nostalgic for dessert. So I thought I’d put up some pictures to comfort myself and all of you in the throes of early January diets. All dishes are still on the menu unless otherwise noted.

The best bread pudding I ever had came from La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Arizona (the town mentioned in the Eagles song “Take It Easy”). The chef called it breakfast, but it was really a dessert: rich and filling and having that one touch that makes it special, in this case prickly pear fruit syrup (which the restaurant offers for pancakes and waffles as well). Beth Partin's photos, Arizona restaurants, La Posada, Turquoise RoomNext in the category of breakfasts that are really desserts: Root Down’s banana bread French toast with walnuts and organic chicory and crème fraîche (I asked for extra, which arrived when I was almost done), notable especially for its amazingly dense texture. It required a couple of hours of down time just to recover. Beth Partin's photos, Denver restaurants, Highlands Denver restaurantsIn the category of bona fide desserts, I present this lemon ice from Panzano. The plating was so simple and beautiful I couldn’t resist. (By the way, when we were there, Panzano also offered a cherry bread pudding, for dessert. It’s not listed on the menu now; I believe it was part of the tasting menu. You could always call and ask.)Beth Partin's photos, downtown Denver restaurants, Panzano, Denver dessertsAnd finally, something from D Bar. I wanted to show the palmond3 again, but it’s not on the menu now, so I settled for the “molten cake thingy that everyone has” with Malbec fruit compote and ice cream. The current menu mentions pistachio ice cream, but the topper here is some other flavor that I can’t remember. Currently D Bar offers 4 desserts I haven’t tried, including the bel canto mocha and the apple Sammy. So get over there and try them for me!Beth Partin's photos, Uptown Denver restaurants, Denver desserts, D Bar
Turquoise Room on UrbanspoonRoot Down on UrbanspoonPanzano on UrbanspoonD Bar Desserts on Urbanspoon

Food Photography with Jennifer Olson at Euclid Hall

I’ve been posting photographs of food on my blog for two years now, but I’ve noticed the results are hit-or-miss, to put it charitably. When I heard about a food photography class being taught by Jennifer Olson (author of Colorado Organic and a member of Boulder Media Women), I signed up.

The 14 members of the class met at Euclid Hall to try to capture the beauty of that new Denver restaurant’s food (but, sadly, not to eat it). We met Beth Gruitch, one of the owners of Euclid Hall, Rioja, and Bistro Vendôme. I learned that Olson helped Gruitch open Rioja but hadn’t thought of being a food photographer until she got out of the restaurant business. We also met Chris, the sous-chef at Euclid Hall, and Chris Caldes, a food stylist.

I’d say I was one of the least-experienced people in the class. For example, the woman on my left (also named Beth) was a product photographer. The man on my right had a cool gadget called an L bracket that allows you to move the camera from horizontal to vertical without changing your stance.

After a talk about the basics of photography, Olson got us up and moving around and messing with our food. Here’s a typical shot by me, respectful of the food. And, oooh, look at those beautiful patterns of light on the dish and on the chair!

Beth Partin's photos, Euclid Hall, Jennifer OlsonNice red and orange sprinkles, too. But what flavor is it, exactly?Beth Partin's photos, Jennifer Olson, Colorado Organic, Euclid HallOh, I see, it’s red velvet. (Too bad the only thing in this picture that’s sharp at all is the reflection on the fork.) I like both these photos for different reasons, but this class made me realize that paying too much attention to shape or pattern may obscure the best qualities of the dish. Also, Olson pointed out that a lens around 50 mm is best suited for food photography. But because I saw other students climbing up on chairs and shooting with long lenses, I used my 70-200 mm lens for this shot (1/200, f4.5).

I fell into this trap again with the bone marrow. I was thinking so hard about making it interesting that I forgot to highlight the food itself: the marrow. Beth Partin's photos, Euclid Hall, bone marrow, food photography, Denver restaurantsHow did those onions get up there? Did they teleport? Look how they’re hanging there so casually, as if they belong. So I tried to fix it (keep in mind, I’m still using the long lens here, f4.5, but a slow shutter speed).Denver restaurants, food photography, Jennifer Olson, Denver photosThat’s better, but the marrow isn’t really in focus; the onions are. And the pretty lemons in back also distract from the subject. Time to simplify.Denver restaurants, Denver photos, Beth Partin's photosWhen I showed Jennifer Olson this photograph, she complimented me on the composition but said she wanted the foreground to be sharp. She also pointed out that she was seeing more bone than marrow. When I told her what lens I was using, she suggested I switch to my kit lens (18–55 mm).Denver photos, Denver restaurants, Beth Partin's photos, Beth Partin photosI tried to recapture the composition above (I love that gray background—maybe it’s another student’s jeans?), but I couldn’t. I think this one is nicely composed, but next time I’ll turn the bone so the marrow is more prominent and shoot at f8 so the marrow is in focus.

I took a couple of photographs in class I thought were successes. Here’s one of my favorites as far as sharpness goes, though the subject is relentlessly brown.Beth Partin photos, Beth Partin's photos, Denver restaurantsRemember that pretty half-lemon from one of the bone marrow shots? I also took one with that, but then the photo was about the lemon, not the fish and chips. This next photo is brighter.Beth Partin photos, Beth Partin's photos, Jennifer Olson, Denver restaurantsNice variety of colors; someone else moved the green bean to the front. I think next time I would put the fork somewhere else. In fact, I wonder if using silverware as a prop is a cliché.

At the end, Olson critiqued our photos. She was far more generous with praise of my photos than I am here, which made me happy. I’d like to take a private class with her sometime.

What I learned:

  • First of all, it’s OK to play with your food. It’s OK to stand up in the aisle to take a better photo, as long as you’re not blocking the servers or patrons.
  • Second, those glistening brown turkeys you see in magazines? Raw. Really, even when they look so crispy? So the photo designed to make you eat the food is of food you can’t eat.
  • Third, the trend right now in food photography is to focus on the foreground while leaving your aperture wide open. Only the front of the dish will be sharp. (Most of the time, I prefer more depth of field.)
  • Fourth, use natural light. If you must use flash, improvise a diffuser to avoid harsh shadows.
  • Fifth, consider buying an assistant on a stick (that is, a pole to which you can clip a diffuser or reflector).
  • Sixth, a good food styling kit includes tweezers (to move stuff around), scissors, sponges to wipe away messes and prop up food, syringes and spray bottles to apply water, a set of baking rounds to hold food, and perhaps some cheesecloth to cover the flash if you don’t have a diffuser.

Downtown Denver Restaurants: India House*

Todd and I arrived at India House in downtown Denver after a Saturday afternoon of missed connections.India House exterior Denver Aug 2009

He hadn’t meant to come all the way to downtown Denver; in fact, he had been in Boulder and generously decided to drive to the Merchandise Mart to pick me up from Earthworks Expo. But by the time we talked on the phone, I was already on the 7, heading southeast to downtown Denver. (I could have taken a bus north from the Merchandise Mart to Broomfield, but then I would have been stranded several miles from home because of reduced service on the weekends.)

So he drove a little farther to meet me, and we headed to the mini–restaurant row on Blake between 16th and 15th Streets. We had our pick of Caribbean, Mexican, Moroccan, BBQ, a sports bar…that’s all I can remember. But I chose the Indian restaurant. When Todd saw that the prices on the menu outside were 50 percent higher than at other Indian restaurants we frequent, he announced, “It had better be fuckin’ good.”

Saturday was the day the cellulitis on his leg really started bothering him, which did not improve his mood.

India House is elegant inside, dark and cool. It’s a long, narrow restaurant with an upstairs that overlooks the entrance. That area would be a great place to reserve for a private party, except that the bathrooms and the bar are upstairs too, so one group could never have it entirely to themselves.

The service was unhurried, but we waited too long only at the beginning of our meal. After that, everything arrived when it should. They brought us pappadum with two house-made chutneys.India house chutneys Denver Aug 2009The tamarind was so red I didn’t recognize it; usually it’s brown. The mint-jalapeno chutney was refreshing, and both chutneys were spicy. Not what I expected, considering how the website mentions the chef’s “low threshold for chili.”

Next came Todd’s mulligatawny soup. There was a lot to like: the thin broth was lemony, with just a little diced chicken. But it was too salty.

I wish I had turned over the cauliflower pakora before I took this picture; India House veg pakoras Denver Aug 2009the pattern created by slicing it in half was beautiful. They were best hot, just come from the kitchen, but they were still decent well into the meal.

The chicken tikki saag was rich and flavorful—again, except for the salt. Whatever happened to the “subtlety of delicate spicing” mentioned on the website? The heat was right—I asked for medium, and I got it, which is somewhat rare at Indian restaurants—but only the pakoras were subtly spiced.India House chicken tikki saag Denver Aug 2009

Todd and I were a little disappointed by this meal, but at least he wasn’t hungry anymore, and his leg wasn’t bothering him—that is, until he stood up and had to walk on it. We didn’t know it then, but there were antibiotics in his future.

***

*I didn’t realize that India House used to be Delhi Darbar. I had been to their restaurant in Boulder a couple of times but was never completely blown away. Perhaps the Denver location is now the only one left.
Delhi Darbar on Urbanspoon

Crazy About Denver: Good-bye, Alto and ESPN Zone

Alto bar Denver June 2009Perhaps 10 days after I first visited Alto Restaurant and Lounge on June 17, it has closed. I was looking forward to spending more time in the bar.

ESPN Zone in the Tabor Center will also close its doors, laying off 100 employees. And the Red Room on Capitol Hill closed some time ago.

In this recession, as in the previous one, Colorado felt the effects later than other parts of the country.

My thoughts are with all the employees who lost their jobs.

Downtown Denver Restaurants: Alto Restaurant and Lounge

Alto exterior Denver June 2009Alto
1320 15th Street (between Market and Larimer)
downtown Denver
303-893-2586
Alto closed the last week of June.

Everything about Alto is beautiful: the restaurant, the bar, the servers, the food.

I went there last Wednesday to attend a reading arranged by Lighthouse Writers Workshop to show off the work of participants in the summer Lit Fest. I was one of the first people there, around 7:30 on a weeknight. The bar wasn’t busy, but it looked like a great place to have a drink. Alto bar Denver June 2009Toward the back, past the end of the bar where the servers hang out when they’re not busy, patrons can lounge on couches.

The reading was set up in the third room, separated from the middle room by a sheer curtain.Alto back room Denver June 2009

By the time the reading started at 8, people had filled up all the tables in the long, narrow room, and I was contemplating my dinner of two sides, mac and cheese and grilled asparagus.

I’ve been trying to think of a way to characterize Alto’s menu. You can get pork loin or mussels or BBQ ribs or pasta or salad or a burger. Several dishes seem Italian-influenced, but that’s as far as I’d go.

As is trendy these days, the macaroni and cheese was very rich. Alto mac and cheese and asp Denver June 2009I can’t identify all the cheeses just by tasting, but there was some kind of blue cheese in there, and the crust on top contrasted with all the gooiness underneath. The asparagus spears were crisp and tasted grilled. That lovely, filling food cost $10, but then I managed to spend 200 percent more on wine. What can I say? The waitress kept asking me if I wanted anything … and apparently I did. And from the look of the wine rack near the entrance, there certainly are wines-aplenty.

The Paul Dolan chardonnay was a bit too citrusy to stand up to the meal, but the Colores del Sol Malbec Reserva was big and fruity enough to do the job.Alto wine rack Denver June 2009

It was a nice evening, full of poetry and fiction and good food and wine. I got to catch up with old friends and make a new one. And it reminded me that I’ve been meaning to do a mac-off around Denver to see which restaurant has the best mac and cheese. So far I’ve had the dish at 4 restaurants, but I’m sure that’s only a drop in the bucket. Maybe at the end of the summer I’ll start writing mac-off Mondays. I’ve written nearly 40 MonHaibuns, and, frankly, I just don’t give a damn anymore.
Alto on Urbanspoon

Downtown Denver Restaurants: Leela’s European Café

leelas-exterior-downtown-denver-june-2009Leela’s European Café
820 15th Street (at Stout)
downtown Denver
303-534-2255
Open 24/7
Bus directions: take the MallRide to Stout and walk over

I was so pleased to stumble upon Leela’s during my recent trek down 15th Street in downtown Denver. After the parking lot and the Hyatt and other massive buildings, it was great to walk into a place that was open and welcoming, not looming over me.

Leela reminded me a tiny bit of City, O’City on Capitol Hill. Like City, O’City, it is a restaurant and a coffee bar; it even sells pastries by the bar. But Leela’s is much larger and has a stage at the back where bands play on Friday and Saturday nights.leelas-stage-denver-june-2009 Given the MySpace page mention of “exposure,” I would guess that the bands don’t get paid much, if at all.

I ordered my Greek salad with no olives at the bar, as the sign says, and tried out the tiny bar-height table first, but the shorter table was just right for me and all my stuff. In no time at all, my salad arrived: sliced romaine with onion and tomato and green pepper and lemon-pepper dressing.leelas-greek-salad-no-olives-denver-june-2009 I would have preferred half the feta, but that is my only complaint. My mouth was still tingling from the peppery dressing when I left.

The barkeep liked the looks of the Greek salad so much she ordered it for lunch.

Leela’s wasn’t crowded at lunch. There were two tables when I walked in and a few people at the bar.leelas-bar-downtown-denver-june-2009 The barkeep chatted with all of them; she was in her second week and very, very personable. When I asked her how long the restaurant had been open, she said about two years. She laughed about the fact that they “don’t charge” tax; the price you see on the menu is the price you pay. That’s what’s European about the place, she added.

In addition to several salads, Leela’s serves omelettes, “finger food,” panini, burgers, and grilled Italian sandwiches. The drinks on the back of the menu include the Crème Brulee, the Michael Jackson with white and dark chocolate, and the Open 24 Hours, with 4 shots of espresso, mocha, steamed milk, and cinnamon-sugar-encrusted foam.

Leela’s has 899 friends on MySpace, so it must be doing something right. The reviews on Yelp are seriously mixed, from “No reason not to go” to “roaches on the bar.” But I’ll go back at least once: I still want to try the Bellagio Sipping Chocolate.
Leela's and Tarantula's on Urbanspoon

Lemongrass and T-Shirts in Downtown Denver

ans-lemongrass-grill-interior-denver-june-2009An’s Lemongrass Grill
1617B California Street
downtown Denver
720-889-0383
Bus directions: take the mall shuttle from Market Street Station

An’s Lemongrass Grill caught my eye on a recent walkabout of downtown Denver. I visited it Tuesday on a rainy June day when the high reached only the fifties. It was one of those days that reminded me how unpredictable spring can be in Colorado. Fall is generally a much better time to visit, weather-wise.

An’s, slightly off the mall toward 17th Street, had a well-designed logo, but I couldn’t get a decent picture of the exterior. The interior was well-designed, unless you want to go to the hard-to-find bathroom during a rush. The menu is a bit cheeky—”Asian Portion,” “Texas Portion,” “Main Course”—but what I noticed first was the overabundance of plastic. No compostables here.

Even the table looked to be made of plastic with a bamboo pattern. Of the two dishes I ordered—main course with brown rice and chicken, and crab and asparagus soup—the soup was better. ans-lemongrass-grill-main-course-and-soup-denver-june-2009Cloudy with shreds of crab and slices of white asparagus, it tasted of the latter with a hint of crab. There was too much brown rice for me in the Asian portion, and the chicken tasted precooked and warmed over.

The downtown lunch crowd flowed in and out of An’s when I was there; obviously the food and the plastic containers suited them better than me. One of the awards hanging on the wall dated to 2002. Maybe it was an off-day.

After lunch, I crossed California to visit the Denver Visitor Information Center at the “California Mall,” which used to include a food court, though the shadows of those words are not visible in this picture. The visitors center is to the left of the orange question mark.calif-mall-downtown-denver-tourist-info-june-2009 I recommend it for visitors and residents alike; I had never heard of the Purple Martini bar in the Tabor Center, for example. You can buy tickets to events in Denver at the center, and there are several people there ready to help you find entertainment.

My final stop of the day solved a mystery. I’d seen this store and called it “Cottrell’s,” cottrells-and-only-in-colorado-16th-street-mall-denver-june-2009but that was the name of a former department store, possibly a locally owned one. The contemporary store, Only in Colorado, is one of three on the mall owned by two brothers (and another works for them) named Young Chung. According to the clerk at the Welcome to Denver Store down the mall a few blocks, the three brothers have different middle names.

It was confusing for both of us.

At Only in Colorado, the neatness of the T-shirt racks astounded me. I wanted to buy the T-shirt that read, “If you don’t speak to your cat about catnip, who will?” There was no fitted version, so I settled for a hot pink Denver T-shirt.

Only in Colorado is THE place to get a touristy T-shirt in downtown Denver.only-in-colorado-interior-16th-street-mall-denver-june-2009 The other stores have similar merchandise but are much smaller. One or more of these stores has been in business on the mall for 40 years. They sell sand paintings and moccasins, small Western sculptures (some of the Mill Creek Studios creations were appealing), leather hats (“USA” on the top label, “Made in China” on the one underneath), and “genuine Indian handcrafted jewelry,” though I didn’t see any certificates of authentication.
An's Lemongrass Grille on Urbanspoon

Downtown Denver Restaurants: Appaloosa Grill

denver-mayor-john-hickenlooper-appaloosa-grill-december-1-2008Appaloosa Grill
535 16th Street (16th and Welton)
upper downtown Denver
720-932-1700
Open 7 days a week; live music every night
Bus directions: take the mall shuttle from Market Street Station

Ever since I attended a Mile High Business Alliance event at the Appaloosa Grill, which featured impressive appetizers and local beer, I’ve been wanting to eat dinner there.

Alas, fate in the form of Stang Auto Tech intervened last Friday. The $3,000 of long-delayed service on the truck wouldn’t be done in time for us to pick it up and drive to downtown Denver by dinner. We canceled our patio reservation and settled for brunch on Sunday.

Appaloosa Grill is at the corner of 16th and Welton, in a beautiful red-stone building, the Masonic Building, which was gutted by fire in the 1980s.masonic-building-16th-street-mall-denver-june-2009 The Horse was originally owned by Mayor John Hickenlooper’s company, Wynkoop Brewing, but was sold to Johnny James Qualley and Adam Hill, members of the local roots rock band Oakhurst, and a couple of other investors.

When I walked in, I was startled by how empty the place was.appaloosa-grill-empty-bar-denver-june-2009 I thought, brunch in downtown Denver, we’ll have to wait for half an hour, right? But I guess the hot places for brunch in Denver are Dixon’s (in LoDo) and Snooze on Park Avenue.

The Horse has a small patio, which was already full, so we took a booth with a view of the mall. One of my first sights out the window was a white horse and buggy carrying a white family down the mall. The second was of a black man in an apron on the corner. At first I thought he must be one of the cooks, taking a break.

“Hit the Road, Jack” was playing as we sat down, but luckily that wasn’t a hint about our brunch. I ordered the Spotted Horse Scramble, with cheddar, roasted red pepper, and black bean and corn succotash. appaloosa-spotted-horse-scramble-downtown-denver-june-2009It was barely warm when it came out, but I liked the cheesy egg flavor. What I noticed most was the mixture of textures: egg and bean and soft sweet pepper and juicy corn. The sourdough toast was light and crisp, and when I asked the waitress for jelly, she brought grape because that was all they had.

Todd’s breakfast burrito had a slightly spicy green chili and perhaps a few too many potatoes inside, given that I had half a plate of them sautéed in paprika.appaloosa-breakfast-burrito-denver-june-2009

Brunch neither impressed me overmuch nor depressed me. It was good, solid food, more originally presented than it would be at, say, the Hard Rock Café across the street, and in reasonable portions. I’ve eaten brunch at Dixon’s before in lower downtown Denver, but what I remember about that restaurant was the long patio that allows great people-watching.

I’d be willing to go back to Appaloosa Grill for dinner, but most of all I want to go there sometime after 10 and hear some roots rock and see the website-fabled crowd: “The crowd leans a little older than you’d find in LoDo . . . and far more accessible. It’s hip enough to be hip without making the tragically unhip feel completely unwelcome.”

What a relief.

Perhaps I could even see Oakhurst play. They used to play the Horse more regularly, but our waitress said they tour a lot. When they do play the restaurant, though, it fills up.appaloosa-bar-with-patrons-denver-june-2009

When we left, around 1 pm, “Georgia” was playing, and there were 7 people sitting at the bar. On the corner outside, the man in the apron was trying to convince a young man to part with his shoes for a shine. But the latter had headphones in his ears. He wasn’t ignoring the older man—he didn’t hear him.

Two different eras, on the corner of the 16th Street Mall where the Masonic Building sits.
Appaloosa Grill on Urbanspoon

Downtown Denver Restaurants: Cook’s Fresh Market

cooks-fresh-market-downtown-denver-restaurants-may-2009Cook’s Fresh Market
1600 Glenarm Place, Suite 100
downtown Denver
303-893-2277
Closed Sunday
Bus directions: take the mall shuttle from Market Street Station

I can’t count the times I’ve passed Cook’s Fresh Market while taking the mall shuttle through downtown Denver. And every time I said to myself, “I’ve got to check this place out.”

I finally did that Tuesday. I picked up some chicken green chili soup and Cajun remoulade and managed to resist all the luscious-looking desserts and homemade breads.

When I was there, at 2 in the afternoon, the tables facing the 16th Street Mall were still pretty full and people were standing in line at the deli. Nobody accosted me about taking pictures in the store, probably because the counters are so high that a 5’7″ person like myself can’t see over them. There was a sign stating the obvious and advising people to yodel. Seriously, though, it’s not a terribly user-friendly design.

In any case, I didn’t need to order any of the meat or fish, though the Famous French Hangar Steak sounded intriguing, as did the bacon-wrapped jumbo sea scallops. I moved on to the deli, where I noted sesame-roasted sweet potatoes and bleu cheese chicken salad.

Getting the point here? (The “bleu” gives it away.) A little beyond your basic deli, with prices to match. cooks-fresh-market-desserts-denver-may-2009There’s a list of all their products on the website, including such things as “summer meat bundles,” if you’re the kind of person who likes to get off work in downtown Denver and purchase 29 pounds of meat. And I did notice, Denveater, that they order most of their fish from Foley’s Fish of Boston.

But I had to laugh at this statement on the website about the opening of the downtown store, their second in the Denver Metro area: “Their heralded opening is as important to Denver as was the opening of Dean and DeLuca in New York’s SoHo years earlier.”

Hyperbole aside, the two items I bought were good. The carrots and potatoes and onions in the chicken green chili soup were firm, not mushy, and the small pieces of chicken were wonderfully soft. The soup was just spicy enough for semi-wimpy people like me. Both takeout containers appear to be reusable.cooks-fresh-market-lulu-grilling-sauce-denver-may-2009

I’m writing this while Todd is lying on the couch, trying to figure out what to do with the Cajun remoulade, since we have no shrimp or sliced asparagus. Myself, I thought it tasted fine with carrots and crackers.

Cook’s Fresh Market offers a large selection of dried fruit and a good-sized open cooler full of cheese, including Cotswold, German Butterkase, cave-aged Tallegio, Pecorino Romano, and Whiskey Cheddar. The salad bar was squeezed into a small space but looked well-stocked. The store’s produce section is small, but the website mentions their insistence that everything be as fresh as possible.cooks-fresh-market-desserts-denver-may-2009

Cook’s Fresh Market won’t fulfill Denver Infill‘s wish for a downtown Denver grocery store. It’s not quite as big or as well-stocked as Marczyk Fine Foods in Uptown Denver, but it’s a good place to stop for a sandwich or high-quality meats or cheese or desserts.

All Around Denver, or, a Motley* Post

I have made my living as a copyeditor for some 13 years now, and it has been kicking my butt for the past two years. I used to romanticize reading for a living, but no longer. I’m not sure if it’s my eyes getting tired or my really, really old chair, but my body just doesn’t do it as willingly as it once did.

All that whining was a prelude to explaining why I don’t have a bona fide Golden Triangle/Capitol Hill post today, though one of the places I talk about is in the Golden Triangle. I spent most of the weekend copyediting instead of going to Denver, which would have been much more fun.

But at least I’ll nod in the GT’s direction while I blather on about various restaurants in Denver.

mad-greens-near-art-museum-golden-triangle-denver-2008Mad Greens—Inspired Eats has a restaurant right across from the Denver Art Museum on Acoma between 12th and 13th. Started by two New York guys who apparently met at Colorado College, it’s a salad restaurant where you can build your own or order a Napoleon or a Mad Molly Brown straight from the menu. (Tip: buy a half-salad, and ask for “light” dressing, which means about 5 squirts of dressing instead of 10 or so. Unless your definition of salad always includes 1 cup of mayonnaise.)

The first time I went to a Mad Greens, in Boulder, I was put off by the astounding amounts of plastic they wasted by serving salads in disposable plastic bowls. They’ve long since switched to metal bowls, so I don’t feel guilty about enjoying their salads anymore.

The cool thing about the restaurant near the Denver Art Museum is that it includes a Novo Coffee, a Denver-based coffee company, and a Mad Wine and Cheese. The night I was there, I was about the only person in the restaurant, so I took my salad over to the wine side and surveyed their selection of reds.

I had ordered the Edgar Allen [sic] Poe salad, with greens, apples, pears, walnuts, and blue cheese. In other words, not so different from the salad I had at Le Central, only much bigger. The wine was a 2006 Paso a Paso Tempranillo from La Mancha, Spain, about which I remember—there was a lot of it. The other thing I remember from this far-off meal is that I wanted to get a group of people to hang out for an evening at the wine and cheese bar and see if it could ever be really mad.

***
The Oceanaire Seafood Room, at 14th and Arapahoe in downtown Denver, was the restaurant Todd and I chose to visit during Denver Restaurant Week, on a Sunday night. Everyone else had apparently made the same decision, because the place was packed.

Oceanaire has a lounge vibe going on, Grasshopper!but not the red-light-at-the ceiling tackiness I found at Copeland’s in Louisianamaybe it has an ocean liner vibe? I would call it swank, especially since our bill was about twice the $52.80 base price for Restaurant Week (that’s $52.80 for two people, not counting drinks and tax and tip). I mean, $15 for a glass of Chalone chardonnay? I don’t think a bottle costs that much.

I could go on about the food, but I’ll say just this: if you like seafood, by all means try the Oceanaire. It has 16 locations nationwide, and the seafood we ordered was cooked perfectly, in my opinion. My mahi-mahi in crab bisque was better overall than Todd’s marlin with blue cheese, oceanaire-marlin-denver-2009but they were both good. However, the food did not leave me “lusting for more,” as the website promised. (To be honest, I think conch fritters in the Bahamas are the only seafood that’s ever had that effect on me. OK, so I’m lowbrow, or I need a beach to get lusty. Sue me.)

What impressed me most about Oceanaire was the service. Our waitress recommended a Joseph Drouhin chardonnay (also $15 for a large glass) that went well with both soup and entrée. Three managers, I believe, stopped to chat with us. I’ve never seen servers help each other out as much as they did at Oceanaire, without anyone asking. There was definitely a spirit of camaraderie among the staff.

The milk chocolate mousse was good, and the cheesecake was the whitest I’ve ever seen.
Oceanaire Seafood Room on Urbanspoon

***

I’ve been to Patsy’s Italian Restaurant twice, most recently to have dinner with a couple Todd “met” through a D&D blog. Located at 36th and Navajo (formerly Little Italy, now Lower Highland), across from the Bug Theater and Edge art gallery, it’s been in business since 1921.

Patsy’s is a Denver institution, the place to go for basic Italian. Todd had a massive red serving of chicken parmigiana in a baking dish, with a side of noodles, as if he didn’t have enough food, and I had fettucine alfredo. I liked it (for dinner and lunch the next day), and I liked our waiter, who was attentive and very tall. I’d eat there again, on one of those cold evenings when I wanted warm, solid food, but if I wanted more interesting Italian, I’d go to Pulcinella in Lafayette (since the one in Denver closed).

***
By far the most luscious dish I’ve had recently was the ravioli small plate special at the Mediterranean Restaurant in Boulder, filled with portabello mushrooms and Wagyu beef (Kobe beef comes from Wagyu cattle) and covered with a balsamic reduction. It was rich and smoky and went well with the Grenache/syrah I was drinking.

The Med is a great restaurant if you like a party atmosphere. We arrived at 6 on a Saturday night and it was already bursting with energetic conversations. The servers whizzed by and never dropped anything. I had dinner with 8 women, only 1 of whom I’d met before, and it was fun. Almost all of them were taking a night away from toddlers, so I didn’t whine to them about my copyediting woes.

See how lucky you are?

*According to Webster’s, the characteristic dress of the professional fool.

A Long Post about Food for the Season of Short Days

Marczyk Fine Foods exterior, Uptown, Denver, with downtown cash register building in background Marczyk Fine Foods
770 East 17th Avenue
Uptown, Denver
303-894-9499
Bus directions: take the 12 or the 20 from Market Street Station

I went out last Saturday looking for markets, and I visited five: the Winter Farmer’s Market in Longmont, Urban Pantry (which I wrote about here), Ujamaa Holiday Market (a once-a-year event in Five Points focusing on gifts), Marczyk Fine Foods, and the Market at Larimer Square.

Of the four, Marczyk is the only full-service grocery store, by which I mean it offers fresh produce, both raw and cured meat, fish, pre-made foods, an entire rack of spices and condiments, and lots of soft drinks stacked by the windows facing 17th Avenue. And for true one-stop shopping, Marczyk Wines, at the back of the store, will help you select a wine to complement your meal. (I wonder if it’s a trend in Denver to pair wine stores with markets—there’s Marczyk Fine Food with its own wine store, Urban Pantry next to Divino on South Broadway, and the Market at Larimer Square across from équipement de vin, which sells Colorado wines and has a tasting room).

Marczyk prominently occupies the corner at 17th Avenue and Clarkson in Uptown Denver, my favorite neighborhood in Denver thus far. (But I make no promises of fidelity. South Broadway is hot too, and Highlands is awfully cute.)

One thing that distinguishes Marczyk from Urban Pantry is the former’s focus on local goods, including Haystack Mountain cheeses from Niwot and Continental Sausage from Denver. Marczyk also had Palacios chorizo and Serrano ham, though the obliging staff behind the deli counter didn’t seem quite as well-versed as Alexandra Failmezger of Urban Pantry in the ins and outs of USDA approval of Spanish ham.

I was impressed by the case containing “Market Made” food. There’s a “Meals-to-Go” menu on their website about the takeout made every day in the store, including mashed potatoes, quiche, soup, and Jamaican jerk chicken. Marczyk will cater vegetable crudité, antipasto, sandwich, and cheese platters. Gift baskets are available through local business A la Carte Baskets.

In short, Marczyk’s has a larger and more complete selection of foods than Urban Pantry, but I stop short of saying a “better” selection, because the items at Urban Pantry were so unusual and just plain cool.

The Market at Larimer Square
1445 Larimer Square
Downtown Denver
303-534-5140
Bus directions: walk up to Larimer from Market Street Station and then southeast to 15th

At the end of a busy Saturday, my husband and I stopped in at the Market for a quick bite to eat, and I immediately fell in love with their dessert case, full of lusciously frosted cakes. They can make you cheesecake, pound cake, mousse, pies (with two days’ notice) … and they’ll also sell you chocolate truffles.

A downtown grocery in the 1970s during the era of the Denver Urban Renewal Authority, whose activities spawned the historic preservation movement in Denver, the Market at Larimer Square changed ownership in 1983 and became a deli and espresso bar. Its website calls it the first espresso bar between New York and Los Angeles.

It’s a huge store with well-worn wooden floors (in contrast to the cement floors at Marczyk and Urban Pantry). The espresso bar is on the left as you walk in the door, with exotic drinks such as black forest latte. To get to the deli, ascend the stairs; the dessert and truffle cases sit to your right. You can order sandwiches, hot food, cold salads, and wine and beer at the deli. Specialty food items fill the shelves built into the walls, though it takes a little fancy footwork to reach them through the tons of tables.

Todd and I had a French dip sandwich, which was very good, and some green chili, which was more like soup (with black beans, among other things) than the typical pork chili ladled over a burrito. The tea, white chocolate, and dark chocolate truffles we tried were good.

The salad bar at the far end of the deli was not terribly impressive, but of the food we ate, there was nothing not to like, and the service was very good.

The Market offers box lunches, party trays, and custom catering. There is a small delivery fee for the downtown area.

Market on Urbanspoon