A Substantial Meal at Black Pearl

When we ate at Black Pearl Sunday night in Denver’s South Pearl/Platt Park neighborhood, we sat by the garage-style window, right by the sidewalk. Had anyone been sitting at the tables below us, we could have eavesdropped. Or leapt onto the sidewalk without much effort. The rain probably discouraged anyone from sitting there, but it didn’t come in the window.

Black Pearl is an elegant space, and all the staff were attentive, though I wish our waiter had been a little less formal. Denver restaurants, South Pearl Denver restaurants, New American cuisine Denver

We could have made a meal of our appetizers. The 6 Eagle Rock oysters from Washington State were silky and dressed in a tarragon mignonette, though I tasted more paprika than tarragon. West Coast oysters; Denver restaurantsThey were delightfully tart and a little spicy. Todd ordered the grilled romaine salad, which was peppery and smoky and grilled just the right amount, which is to say that the greens still had some texture. The dressing was rich, perhaps even gooey, but it seemed appropriate. We couldn’t stop eating the truffle fries, which were encrusted with parmesan and were good even when cool, although the herb aioli was bland.truffle fries, Denver restaurants, New American cuisine

Todd loves scallops, so he couldn’t pass up that entree, which came with a sweet corn crème fraîche sauce, shaved snap peas, and black truffles. I tasted only the scallops, which were perfectly sautéed. scallops, Denver South Pearl restaurantsMy entree, the piquillo peppers stuffed with wild mushrooms and Gruyere, was more substantial, less pretty than Todd’s but more interesting. Overall it was smoky because of the poblano chili oil, and the stuffing was moist rather than cheesy, but the jalapeño added bite and both it and the cauliflower contributed some crispness—though not quite enough.

If I hadn’t been so full from all the rich, smoky food, I would have ordered the drunken pear and chocolate mousse. Or the lemon meringue tartlet with thyme chocolate ganache. Next time.

Black Pearl on Urbanspoon

Two South Broadway Restaurants

I have three foodie friends whose names begin with R, and Tuesday night I went to Sketch for the second time with one of them. So, I’ve been to Sketch twice with two different Rs. Got that?

On my first visit to Sketch, in mid-January, the small restaurant was packed. We sat at the back by the only bathroom, where it was quieter. My friend Ruth Tobias was interviewing the man who was redoing the wine list, and we were well attended to. I had a refreshing Prosecco with pear, and she ordered a couple of the spicier red wines, a taste we share. We sampled two cheeses, one of which, the Gouda with nettles, had an intriguing herbal flavor. cheese plate, Sketch Denver, Denver restaurantsAnd then we had homemade pasta in a crimini mushroom sauce. The dish featured a light, flavorful mushroom sauce with slivers of zucchini and parmesan, and I was pleased that the chef gave me a small portion. I get tired of the huge amounts of pasta served at some restaurants.  Beth Partin's photos, Sketch pasta

It was much quieter at Sketch the second time I ate there, on Tuesday. R2 and I would have sat on the patio, but the sun was too blinding at 5 pm, so we went inside to the bar. She tried to order a Roederer sparkling wine but was handed a glass of red wine. When it turned out that the bottle of wine she really wanted had gone flat and they didn’t have one on ice, she got the Segura Viudas Brut Rose Cava instead. I saw “blood orange soda” on the menu and ordered that, made by Rième, a French company that was new to me. I took home the bottle because (1) it was all curvy and (2) Sketch doesn’t recycle.

R2 ordered the pasta with mushrooms, and it looked pretty much the same as the one I had, although she got a larger serving and there were no long slivers of vegetables across the pasta.

The warm brussels sprouts salad was pleasing enough, and simple enough, that I thought I’d try to make it at home. South Broadway Denver restaurants, Sketch pasta,Its base, mixed greens in balsamic vinaigrette, was softened by the addition of butternut squash cubes and figs and contrasted with the firmer brussels sprouts leaves. (You can find a few of them in the picture, around the edges. There weren’t as many as I expected.) The last three ingredients were sautéed with something spicy and tossed with the greens and caramelized onions and toasted hazelnuts. I liked the mixture of warm and cool, sweet and spicy and sour, crunchy and silky.

We paid up and walked down Broadway to Delite because one restaurant just wasn’t enough. By then the sun had gone behind the buildings on Broadway, so we could sit in the garage door–style window and watch passersby stare at us.  I ordered a rather dull Gruet sparkling wine to go with the mac and cheese, and R2 got spicy edamame and a glass of Clean Slate riesling.Delite mac and cheese, Denver restaurants, South Broadway Denver restaurants We sat by the DJ and listened to 1980s tunes. You’d think the salad from Sketch would have filled me up, especially after the stomach shrinkage caused by 4 chemo treatments, but the mac, served in a small cast iron pan, had a creamy truffle sauce that I couldn’t resist. I liked it much more than Sputnik’s version, which was rather dry.

Sketch on Urbanspoon

From Casa Bonita to Colt and Gray

Todd and I visited both Casa Bonita (his idea) and Colt and Gray (my idea) one night in February, and the only other thing that connected them was that I acted like a crazed photographer at both, to the point of annoying Todd (and probably other people). And racing around that way didn’t do much for my photographs either.Beth Partin's photos, Denver attractions, Denver restaurants

I realized later I could have sat down at our table at Casa Bonita and eaten “dinner” (my taco salad was a relatively safe choice), Beth Partin's photos, Denver travel, Denver attractions, Denver restaurantstalked more to our dinner companions, and then taken photographs afterward. Probably, I would have gotten the same quality photographs without bouncing up and down like a Jill-in-the-Box. But I had just bought a new camera 5 days earlier, and I couldn’t wait to try it out.

It was a humbling experience. My new Canon 60D is a great camera, but the limits of its flash were fairly apparent at Casa Bonita. The pop-up flash wasn’t powerful enough for the dark interior. It worked well enough for members of the mariachi band, who stood close to our table. Denver attractions, visit Denver, Denver travel, mariachi bands
But it didn’t work so well when I tried to capture the acts near the waterfall.

Denver attractions, Casa Bonita cliff diver, visit Denverfire, juggler, juggling, Denver attractions

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Those two photos had to be lightened up considerably, even after I bumped up the ISO to about 1,000.

Taking a photo from behind the waterfall gives some sense of the size of the place. Beth Partin's photos, Casa Bonita divers, Denver restaurants

I think that the waterfall is behind the tower shown here. Denver travel, Denver Mexican restaurantsOur seats were on the top level, and there is at least 1 other level, possibly 2—I can’t remember. I know that we entered the restaurant, stood in this line, which reminds me of the security line at DIA,flash photography, Beth Partin's photos, Denver restaurants

and then walked up a ramp to get to our seats (right by the waterfall).

I wonder how much money Casa Bonita makes in an evening. There’s no reason to linger over dinner, but it’s worthwhile to hang around to watch more acts like this magician, Beth Partin's photos, Casa Bonita magician, Denver attractionsbuy cotton candy or toys, and play games in the arcade. One of our companions goes every year for her birthday. I can’t see myself going that often, but I would go back with a better flash and more time to concentrate on photography.

Colt and Gray is almost the complete opposite of Casa Bonita. The former is a small restaurant on an urban street in Denver’s Central Platte Valley neighborhood. It focuses on local, lovingly prepared food, and its bar features “mixologists” and locally made liquor such as the Leopold Brothers’ products shown here. Denver mixologists, Denver restaurants, gastropubs Its dinner menu includes the category “Offal.” There is one similarity, though, between CB and C&G: it’s fun to sit at the bar and watch the bartenders in action.

So far, I’ve had the Spaniard, the Martinez with Old Tom Gin (spilled on me by an overly vigorous bartender, who promptly replaced it with a mix of tequila and mezcal and spicy vermouth), and the Fernet cocktail. Todd has had the Fancy-Free, which like the Fernet is on the current cocktails menu. But my favorite drink by far came after I requested a drink with chocolate. What I got in the absence of chocolate in the bar was a mixture of Root liqueur, Upslope Brown Ale, Bourbon bitters, and a whole egg. Root liqueur, Beth Partin's photos, Denver restaurantsIt was luscious, growing sweeter toward the bottom. It also caused the most annoying photo-incident of the night, because I had great difficulty getting the flash to focus. I finally managed it, but Todd was not happy about the strobe-light effect. And I was not happy when I went to edit this picture and discovered the white balance was set to tungsten (I had forgotten to change it to AWB after taking pictures at Casa Bonita). Thank goodness for RAW files.

I’ve been served one dinner at Colt and Gray (on an earlier visit) and lots of snacks. This burger was cooked properly (that is, I asked for medium and got a burger that was pink inside), Denver gastropubs, Denver gastro pubs, Denver gastro-pubsbut the real star of the meal was the broccoli with rosemary anchovy dressing. Broccoli is not my favorite vegetable, unless it’s grilled and has this salty dressing poured on it. Then I could eat it all day.

The gougeres crusted with blue cheese were nice enough, warm and bready, but I wasn’t as impressed by them as I expected to be. Denver restaurants, Central Platte Valley restaurants

What I wanted from Colt and Gray that night (besides something to wash the taste of Casa Bonita food out of my mouth) was a sweet, and the rich drink didn’t change that. I ordered the sticky toffee pudding with bourbon ice cream. bourbon ice cream, Beth Partin's photosThe sticky toffee lived up to its name, but the best part of the dessert was the whiskey-flavored ice cream. Colt and Gray is a Denver restaurant to visit again and again, for dinner or for snacks and drinks. As Todd said on our first visit, “It’s a good day when you get grease stains all over your notebook.”
Casa Bonita on UrbanspoonColt & Gray on Urbanspoon

Squeaky Bean Satisfies, for a Price

After two visits to the Squeaky Bean (one last fall, for brunch, and one the weekend before Valentine’s Day, for dinner), I recommend it for artfully plated, flavorful food. But the middle-class Midwesterner still lurking in me complains that if you spend more than $50 per person, you ought to be stuffed. That’s not an easy thing to do at the Squeaky Bean unless you have money to burn.

We showed up at the Squeaky Bean at 5:30 (the only reservation we could get, unless we wanted to wait until 8), and the hostess bowed to me when I complimented her argyle tights. We sat at a small table by the window.

I ordered the Smoking Frenchman, consisting of Pierre Ferrand Ambre 10-year cognac, Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur (fortified with cognac), Angostura bitters, lemon bitters, and a Talisker rinse (single-malt Scotch). It was sweet and smoky and strong. Beth Partin's photos, Highlands Denver restaurantsTodd ordered the Castelvetrano olives with Marcona almonds, and then we followed up with a small plate of pears and roquefort with walnuts and olive oil cake. Beth Partin's photos, Denver restaurants, locally sourced foodThe globule at the bottom is pear juice, which our waiter said the kitchen compressed by wrapping it in plastic (this during Plastic-Free February). The cheese was pungent, and firm slices of pears contrasted well with the cheese mousse and the pear juice.

After that, I felt the need for something hearty and asked for the No-Bake Shepherd’s Pie. Todd chose the seared Hiramasa (yellowtail amberjack). Beth Partin's photos, Denver restaurants, local foodYou can see the orange on top there, along with sliced fennel on top and a roasted leek on the bottom; the dish also included lentils and a tomato broth infused with proscuitto, which was poured into the bowl at the table. That was a nice touch.

Despite the variety of ingredients, Todd’s dinner was rather bland. Neither one of us could taste the ham in the tomato sauce.

The shepherd’s pie arrived, every bit as tasty as it looks here. Beth Partin's photos, Aspen Moon Farms, local produceThe lamb, which included shoulder and roasted leg, ranged from lightly seared to well done, and I thought the latter was somewhat better. I was struck by the use of Chex in the little dollops of mashed potatoes (to look like eggs, I suppose) and by the pleasant saltiness of the sauce. Even so, I couldn’t help but feel a little disappointed at its delicacy. I know chefs want to reinvent old standbys, and I thought this reinvention was lovely, but I wanted twice as much.

One of the things Squeaky Bean emphasizes on its website is the use of locally sourced ingredients, from its own garden or Aspen Moon Farms in Longmont. I couldn’t help but wonder just how much of this meal was local: the lamb, perhaps, and the veggies if grown in a greenhouse, but not the Hiramasa, certainly, or the pears or the oranges.

A truly local, seasonal menu would not offer nearly as much variety, of course, and given Americans’ expectation of fresh fruits and vegetables year-round, a restaurant that stuck to seasonally available foods might not stay open for long.

Our desserts were plated as beautifully as everything else, and since we weren’t at the Cheesecake Factory, we didn’t expect to them to be massive. I chose the chocolate and blood orange three ways (I think someone is imitating D Bar, which frequently has “threeways” on its dessert menu), and Todd wanted the peanut butter.Beth Partin's photos, Denver restaurants

Is it just me, or has blood orange been overused lately? The orange gelee on the chocolate mousse was pretty to look at, but its texture put me off, and I preferred the truffle without the candied fruit. The drink was my favorite, nut-flavored with an orange finish.Beth Partin's photos, Denver Highlands restaurants, death by chocolate

If “romantic dinner” means “cuddling” to you, then I wouldn’t recommend the Squeaky Bean, with its cafe atmosphere and tables spaced too close for truly intimate conversation. But if you want attentive service and food prepared with care and imagination, then grab a seat on the patio the next warm weekend day. Here’s the version of Pigs in a (crepe) Blanket I had last fall, with fig. Todd had a frittata.Pigs in a Blanket, Denver brunch
The Squeaky Bean on Urbanspoon

Food Photography with Jennifer Olson at Euclid Hall

I’ve been posting photographs of food on my blog for two years now, but I’ve noticed the results are hit-or-miss, to put it charitably. When I heard about a food photography class being taught by Jennifer Olson (author of Colorado Organic and a member of Boulder Media Women), I signed up.

The 14 members of the class met at Euclid Hall to try to capture the beauty of that new Denver restaurant’s food (but, sadly, not to eat it). We met Beth Gruitch, one of the owners of Euclid Hall, Rioja, and Bistro Vendôme. I learned that Olson helped Gruitch open Rioja but hadn’t thought of being a food photographer until she got out of the restaurant business. We also met Chris, the sous-chef at Euclid Hall, and Chris Caldes, a food stylist.

I’d say I was one of the least-experienced people in the class. For example, the woman on my left (also named Beth) was a product photographer. The man on my right had a cool gadget called an L bracket that allows you to move the camera from horizontal to vertical without changing your stance.

After a talk about the basics of photography, Olson got us up and moving around and messing with our food. Here’s a typical shot by me, respectful of the food. And, oooh, look at those beautiful patterns of light on the dish and on the chair!

Beth Partin's photos, Euclid Hall, Jennifer OlsonNice red and orange sprinkles, too. But what flavor is it, exactly?Beth Partin's photos, Jennifer Olson, Colorado Organic, Euclid HallOh, I see, it’s red velvet. (Too bad the only thing in this picture that’s sharp at all is the reflection on the fork.) I like both these photos for different reasons, but this class made me realize that paying too much attention to shape or pattern may obscure the best qualities of the dish. Also, Olson pointed out that a lens around 50 mm is best suited for food photography. But because I saw other students climbing up on chairs and shooting with long lenses, I used my 70-200 mm lens for this shot (1/200, f4.5).

I fell into this trap again with the bone marrow. I was thinking so hard about making it interesting that I forgot to highlight the food itself: the marrow. Beth Partin's photos, Euclid Hall, bone marrow, food photography, Denver restaurantsHow did those onions get up there? Did they teleport? Look how they’re hanging there so casually, as if they belong. So I tried to fix it (keep in mind, I’m still using the long lens here, f4.5, but a slow shutter speed).Denver restaurants, food photography, Jennifer Olson, Denver photosThat’s better, but the marrow isn’t really in focus; the onions are. And the pretty lemons in back also distract from the subject. Time to simplify.Denver restaurants, Denver photos, Beth Partin's photosWhen I showed Jennifer Olson this photograph, she complimented me on the composition but said she wanted the foreground to be sharp. She also pointed out that she was seeing more bone than marrow. When I told her what lens I was using, she suggested I switch to my kit lens (18–55 mm).Denver photos, Denver restaurants, Beth Partin's photos, Beth Partin photosI tried to recapture the composition above (I love that gray background—maybe it’s another student’s jeans?), but I couldn’t. I think this one is nicely composed, but next time I’ll turn the bone so the marrow is more prominent and shoot at f8 so the marrow is in focus.

I took a couple of photographs in class I thought were successes. Here’s one of my favorites as far as sharpness goes, though the subject is relentlessly brown.Beth Partin photos, Beth Partin's photos, Denver restaurantsRemember that pretty half-lemon from one of the bone marrow shots? I also took one with that, but then the photo was about the lemon, not the fish and chips. This next photo is brighter.Beth Partin photos, Beth Partin's photos, Jennifer Olson, Denver restaurantsNice variety of colors; someone else moved the green bean to the front. I think next time I would put the fork somewhere else. In fact, I wonder if using silverware as a prop is a cliché.

At the end, Olson critiqued our photos. She was far more generous with praise of my photos than I am here, which made me happy. I’d like to take a private class with her sometime.

What I learned:

  • First of all, it’s OK to play with your food. It’s OK to stand up in the aisle to take a better photo, as long as you’re not blocking the servers or patrons.
  • Second, those glistening brown turkeys you see in magazines? Raw. Really, even when they look so crispy? So the photo designed to make you eat the food is of food you can’t eat.
  • Third, the trend right now in food photography is to focus on the foreground while leaving your aperture wide open. Only the front of the dish will be sharp. (Most of the time, I prefer more depth of field.)
  • Fourth, use natural light. If you must use flash, improvise a diffuser to avoid harsh shadows.
  • Fifth, consider buying an assistant on a stick (that is, a pole to which you can clip a diffuser or reflector).
  • Sixth, a good food styling kit includes tweezers (to move stuff around), scissors, sponges to wipe away messes and prop up food, syringes and spray bottles to apply water, a set of baking rounds to hold food, and perhaps some cheesecloth to cover the flash if you don’t have a diffuser.

Denver Restaurants: Garbanzo Mediterranean Grill near DU and D Bar Desserts in Uptown

I feel odd writing a review of two restaurants right in the midst of publishing my photos from Globeville, Elyria, and Swansea. I’d like to spend a little more time in those neighborhoods, go to Panadería Emmanuel and Bomaretto’s Produce and the nevería (ice cream parlor) I saw on the Environmental Justice tour.

Garbanzo Mediterranean Grill has locations all over Denver, including the University of Denver area, where we went, and Aurora, but nothing north of I-70. And D Bar Desserts, on 17th Avenue west of Park, sits in the midst of gentrification.

The only gentrification I saw on the tour was Globeville Townhomes, and since gentrification moves low-income people out of neighborhoods, and the people in these neighborhoods want to stay (at least, according to Michael Maes of Cross Community Coalition and Tom Anthony of the Elyria Neighborhood Association), I can’t say I’m in favor of it. I would recommend that the Denver City Council stop forcing industrial development down the throats of people who don’t want to live among it.

And, yes, the lady is protesting too much.

Last Friday Todd and I went to Garbanzo on University near Evans for dinner before Amiri Baraka’s reading at DU. Garbanzo is a fast casual joint that claims to place an emphasis on freshness. However, as Todd said, the tomato and cucumber salad on the right in the picture below had been sitting out all day, and the minty tabbouleh, made with couscous instead of bulgur wheat, had an odd sticky texture that might have been more palatable if it hadn’t also been cold.

We didn’t see a rotisserie there; the pictures on the wall indicated that the shwarma comes in chunks rather than being shaved off a large piece of meat.

The falafels, however, were hot out of the fryer and crispy. The tahini made a nice contrast, but the cilantro sauce didn’t have much oomph. One other thing I liked about the falafels was the liberal use of green herbs in the dough, which lent them a bright appearance and a fresh flavor.

Dinner lasted about 20 minutes, so we had time to kill and nowhere to do so before Baraka’s reading. Amiri Baraka is certainly an accomplished poet and critic (e.g., Blues People), and it may be that he is committed to social justice like no other American writer, as his website says, but he is also an anti-Semite, recycling hateful 9/11 conspiracy theories that were debunked years ago. ‘Nuff said.

All in all, it was a relief to get to D Bar, which was packed as always on a weekend night, and stand around until seats opened up at the communal table. The place is a haven for me. We would have preferred to sit at the bar and talk to the chefs, but instead we talked to the mother and daughter, the couple, and the man with his novel also sitting at our table. Todd got the dressed avocado, which isn’t on the menu anymore (pictured here from an earlier visit), and then the ice cream sandwich.

I got the palmond³, and I’m still trying to locate the 3 uses of pear and 3 uses of almond. The menu describes it this way: palmond³—pear I will actually eat—pear³ almond³ caramelized white chocolate ·pom ·almond ice milk.

Some are easy, of course, like the pear halves and the ball of almond ice milk. I assume the cake on the bottom has almonds and pears in it, and the caramelized white chocolate is the custardy thing between the cake and the pears. But then I thought, What if the sugary crumbs underneath the pears are the caramelized white chocolate and the custard is made with almond and pear? And what about the “pom,” which usually means passionfruit, orange, and mango juice but in this case refers to pear.

I started this post with gentrification and ended it with puzzlement over dessert. Must be nice, eh?
Garbanzo Mediterranean Grill on Urbanspoon
D Bar Desserts on Urbanspoon

Denver Restaurants: My Brother’s Bar

I walked by My Brother’s Bar in Denver’s South Platte neighborhood many a time and could not fathom what might be happening behind the white half-curtains. This Denver landmark has a symbol outside but no sign. I was, I confess, a bit intimidated. Would it be one of those bars where a bunch of paunchy men turned around in unison and squinted at me?

Now I’ve been there twice, both times with company, and I can confidently say that I wouldn’t mind going there by myself and taking a seat at the bar. Though I’m not sure how long I would stay, because the round-back chairs are nowhere near as comfortable as the atmosphere.

My Brother’s Bar, at 15th and Platte Street, just northwest of the South Platte River, is known for being “Denver’s oldest saloon still serving booze on the original site,” according to Tom Noel. An establishment called “Highland House” opened there in 1873 and served Denver’s Italian immigrant community. In the late 1800s, the neighborhood sometimes called Lower Highlands and sometimes called the Central Platte Valley (even though the river is named the South Platte) was sparsely settled. Since then, several different bars have come and gone in that corner building, and the neighborhood is one of Denver’s trendiest.

The bar has a reputation for making good burgers, so when Todd and I went there one Saturday, that’s what we ordered. I chose the jalapeno cream cheese burger, and Todd negotiated with the waitress over a chili cheeseburger. She said she could bring him a cheeseburger and a cup of chili, but not the two together. When she brought our order, we understood why: the burgers are served wrapped in paper rather than on a plate. Saves washing dishes, I guess.

Todd and I liked our burgers well enough, but many of the ingredients seemed to have come out of a can or a box: definitely the chili, and possibly the jalapenos in this cream cheese.

Although the onion rings and fries looked good, the rings were too crispy.Denver restaurants, Denver photos

I got a kick out of this condiments caddy, which has 2 sides so you can put it in the middle of a table and let people dress their burgers without fighting over the onions and relish.

If you want a great burger, I recommend Larkburger (there are locations in Boulder and Greenwood Village). If you want atmosphere, go to My Brother’s Bar, where the host says, “Have fun!” and the servers are mellow and Girl Scout Thin Mints are stacked along the front wall and up the stairs. The menu offers a variety of bar food, including vegetarian items. You can drink a glass from a small but quirky wine list or a craft beer such as Twisted Pine or Samurai or order from the full bar.

My Brother’s Bar is on the Beat Poetry Driving Tour of Denver.
My Brother's Bar on Urbanspoon

Titusville Gulls and Denver Restaurant Week

I’ve been busy this week with copyediting deadlines. Next week I’ll post my review of Dixie Crossroads, my favorite restaurant in Titusville, Florida, but I’m rounding out this week with one of my favorite gull photos from Cocoa Beach.Titusville photosI like the shadows in this one, including mine and Todd’s.

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On February 20 (Saturday), Denver Restaurant Week begins. It lasts until March 5 (that is, two weeks).

Denver Artopia, sponsored by Westword, is Saturday from 7 pm to 2 am.

Denver Restaurants: Mad Wine and Cheese

My friend and I stopped in at Mad Wine and Cheese in the middle of visiting the Denver Art Museum last Wednesday. (Here’s a shot taken on an earlier visit.) The kids got chocolate chip bread at Novo Coffee, and we ordered wine and cheese. I felt pretty decadent to be drinking wine before 4 o’clock. Livin’ large, I guess.

In fact, you could live in the museum residences above Mad Greens, and find salad and coffee and dessert and wine and cheese at the restaurant, and go see art. You’d hardly ever have to leave that one block.

Here’s the cheese plate we ordered for $15. (The two glasses of wine we ordered cost nearly $20.)Denver restaurants

From left to right, the cheeses are Manchego (Spain), Roomano (a 4-year-old Gouda from southern Holland), and Barely Buzzed, from Beehive in Utah. The latter is rubbed with coffee grounds. The dark stuff in the spoon is a tart plum spread. I liked all three cheeses, but my favorite was the Roomano.

Denver Restaurants: Rise and Shine Biscuit Kitchen and Café

Rise and Shine Biscuit Kitchen and Cafe, located at 330 Holly in the same space as Basil Docs, is not exactly in our neighborhood here in Broomfield. But once we decided to spend the day at the Denver Museum of Nature and Science with Genghis Khan and other notables, a biscuit sounded like just the thing to power us through the museum.

Both the Boone biscuit (avocado, lettuce, tomato, mayo) and the Charlotte (bacon instead of avocado) tempted me, but I settled on a biscuit with jam. This biscuit was densely layered and crisp on top from all the butter in the recipe. It tasted the way a biscuit should.

Rise and Shine is a small place, with seating for 5 or 6 people. Therefore I was impressed that the staff brought our food and drinks (a mocha and a hot chocolate) to our seats, rather than handing them over the counter.

My second choice, the biscuit cinnamon roll, was a rather odd amalgam of the two: it had the cinnamon roll’s flavor and shape but the biscuit’s texture. The frosting was perfect—not too sweet.

I’m still partial to Lucille’s biscuits, which are, as Rise and Shine proprietor Seth Rubin told Denveater, cake-like and sheet-cut. I like the way they crumble, which I suppose no self-respecting biscuit should do.

Todd had an egg biscuit and then a cheese and sausage biscuit, which I enjoyed most for its flavorful sausage. I have to confess that when I eat a biscuit topped with eggs or cheese or sausage, I forget about the details of that particular biscuit and start thinking of fast food breakfast sandwiches. It seems hardly fair, so I’ll have to go back someday and try the Boone. Or the biscuit of the day, which on Sunday was dill and cheddar. Or the Pablo’s coffee.

Note: If you stop in at Rise and Shine before closing time at 2 and you’re craving pizza, you can get a slice or two from the pie Basil Docs left the day before. Or, you can wait until 4:30, when Basil Docs starts taking orders for whole pies.
Rise & Shine Biscuit Kitchen and Cafe on Urbanspoon

Denver Restaurants: Paris on the Platte, Again

On my way to Sanctuary on Sunday, I stopped in at Paris on the Platte for lunch and decided to try something new: cambric, or Earl Gray tea with steamed milk and cinnamon on top.

I was a little startled when this pitcher appeared, but the waitress assured me it was the smallest size (16 ounces). I drank all 3 or 4 cups, loving the taste of tea plus steamed milk plus cinnamon, even though I knew the entire time that I wouldn’t be able to fall asleep that night. Why is it that tea keeps me up but coffee doesn’t?

For lunch I ordered Zorba the Greek, which was better than the house salad I had on my last visit. To be honest, the two salads are built on the same foundation of romaine lettuce; in this case, cucumbers, feta, olives, red onions and a balsamic vinaigrette made it “Greek.” The salad wasn’t gasping for air under gobs of feta, and the dressing was just a little sweet.

I find lately that I like eating olives a lot more than I did in the past. Must be the change of life.

There was a suspicious incident at the end, when the bill came with a charge for a small pitcher. The waitress corrected the amount, and I paid.

Now I’m curious to see what the small pitcher looks like. It would probably keep me up for a week.
Paris on the Platte on Urbanspoon

Denver Photos: Cold Chairs

I’ve walked by Colt & Gray many times. I did so on Sunday, looked to my left, and saw a cadre of servers wearing black and white. The front page of the restaurant’s website indicates happy hour begins at 4:30 on Sunday, but things didn’t look promising. (And the happy hour page has happy hour on Monday through Thursday only. A little more consistency, please.)

According to one conversation I overheard, Colt & Gray has the best burgers in Denver. Not to mention pig’s feet. And now I notice they have a twist on the “Vesper” cocktail—and here I am watching Casino Royale: The Remake—and the Riviera is just one of their original cocktails.

Perhaps I should assemble a group, so I won’t feel so intimidated by gangs of servers.

Here is what I saw when I looked to my right. Denver photos

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The Colorado Indian Market and Southwest Showcase is happening this weekend at the Merchandise Mart.

Denver Restaurants: Vita in Lower Highlands

After the mellow vibe of Shangri-La coffee just next door, Vita seemed almost frenetic. It’s cool, the kind of restaurant where 4 slightly menacing guys in Ray-Bans and leather would go (“Gestapo,” I said, having just watched Inglorious Basterds again; “Russian mob,” according to Todd). Beyond the bar fronting the windows, 3 circular black booths cluster in the center of the room, and everything curves around them. Abstract paintings punctuate the walls, and only when you visit the bathroom do you notice the “upstairs” level and, beyond it, the kitchen.

Right after Christmas, when we visited, the featured artist was Daniel Berv. This bejeweled painting hung over our booth, but my favorite was the atmospheric purplish one in the back room. (I know that’s not a sophisticated description, but it’s what I remember. I assumed it was Berv’s painting, although it had no price tag.)

I don’t recommend going to Vita while you’re on a diet; almost everything on the lunch menu is substantial. I was tempted by the panzanella after reading about Denveater‘s struggle to find a good Italian bread salad in Denver; I was also tempted by Shrimp Two Ways (tempura and tequila-poached). I chose the Caprese sandwich, with slabs of portobella and mozzarella, tomatoes, pesto, and watercress on focaccia. The mushroom and cheese were both sturdier than the bread, which crumbled in my hands. I mentioned it to the waiter, and he responded, “Yeah, but it tastes good, doesn’t it?” It did (mushroom and olive oil and mozzarella, oh my!), but I really do prefer not to drop crumbs and watercress all over the table. That complaint aside, I ate the whole damn thing, as well as the butternut squash soup. It tasted of cardamon, and the pepitas on top added a crunchy finish.

Todd ordered the Cubano, with braised pork, ham, Swiss cheese, mustard, and pickles on a Amoroso roll, and he did indeed seem to love the sandwich. It’s hard not to love such a meat-fest, with brown pork and pink shaved ham hanging out everywhere.

All the food was beautifully presented. In fact, the presentation reminded me of the finesse demonstrated at Encore over on Colfax.

Vita opened 3 years ago and was a 5280 favorite early on. Its rooftop offers a wide view of Denver in the summer.

On that cold day, a warm summer night on the roof sounded like a dream. Is it just me, or did winter linger too long before it officially began?
Vita on Urbanspoon

Denver Restaurants: Mona’s

I wanted to like Mona’s, truly I did. It serves Morning Fresh Farms eggs and Maverick Ranch beef, both local companies. It makes it own hot sauces. It’s in a cool narrow old building 2 doors next to ScribblesMona's and Scribbles's exterior Dec 2009 and My Brother’s Bar at the corner of 15th and Platte and has painted concrete floors and walls lined with booths.

I’ve been to Mona’s twice now, once for lunch when I had a salad, and once for brunch with Todd. The first time they sat me in the back, near the barMona's back bar Dec 2009 and a mother and child who were waiting for Dad to come out of the kitchen, in his chef’s whites and a NY cap. My table was dotted with glass and illuminated by the window to its left. Mona’s is full of light and talk. I could hear the voices of diners around the corner, including the distinct voice of one man.

The first time I was tempted by the French onion soup but chose the spinach salad, with raspberry onions and Danish blue cheese and Granny Smith apples and walnuts (which should have been candied). Mona's spinach salad Dec 2009The vinaigrette was just a little sweet. The English muffin I ordered to bulk things up was white bread, naked, lightly toasted, and hot—a perfect combination.

On my second visit, I ordered pancakesMona's blueberry flapjacks with lemon whipped cream Dec 2009 instead of the scramble and then regretted getting yet another sweet in a season of sweets. At least I had the sense to leave some of the 3 generously sized blueberry flapjacks on the plate; I did finish the lovely lemon whipped cream and most of the pure maple sugar, for which I paid $1.50 extra.

It was Todd’s choice that really stood out: the huevos rancheros that resembled nothing so much as a huevos salad. Mona's huevos Dec 2009Even so, I would have taken it as it was, taco salad bowl and all, but for the romaine strips scattered all over it. That was a little too much new American cuisine. The green chile was spicy enough for me (translation: not too much), the eggs were perfectly scrambled, and the taco bowl, broken up, made great thick chips. But it just didn’t come together into the squishy layered thing.

As I was watching the blond busboy with a camouflage headband clean off this table, Todd commented on how thin all the waitstaff were. “Do they not feed them?” he wanted to know.

Denver Restaurants: Forest Room 5 in Lower Highlands

A last, short, Christmas Eve post this week: after my shopping travails, I needed nourishment. I thought of the House of Commons, a tea shop near Common Era, and of Sushi Sasa around the corner on Platte, where I haven’t been for years, but the House of Commons looked too crowded with cheery groups that sometimes make me feel even-more-singleton than I am. Sushi Sasa, by contrast, was empty, and I was planning to have sushi on Christmas Eve anyway.

So I trudged across the 15th Street bridge over I-25 to Lower Highlands, which I suppose is elevated enough above the South Platte River to deserve its own moniker (though it’s still quite a ways from 32nd and Lowell, the heart of the Highlands neighborhood) and found Forest Room 5 to be just right.Forest Room 5 exterior night Dec 2009

You can’t tell from the picture of the exterior above, but it was quite dark inside, so dim that the helpful bartender gave me this big candle so I could read the menu (that blurry thing in the foreground). The blue patch on the right is part of a movie that was showing above the bar. Forest Room 5 bar dark Dec 2009I had to rest my camera on the bar itself in order to get any semblance of focus, and that was at ISO 1600.

The 5 or 6 other patrons at the bar (the tables along the wall were empty) looked askance at my gyrations, but they didn’t say anything.

The ostensible reason for the lack of light on the winter solstice: Forest Room 5 is renovating its back room (where Lighthouse Writers often held readings) to be a “venue”: in other words, a real stage. Somehow that affects the amount of light in the long front room, which was never very well lit on my previous visits.

After the bartender figured out that I wanted to order food instead of sit at the bar and eat my own food as some patrons have requested, he took my order for the risotto with eggplant and butternut squash and a Woodchuck cider. Unlike the risotto-soup I had at Brio Tuscan Grille in Kansas City, Forest Room 5′s dish was the real thing: Forest Room 5 risotto Dec 2009thick with a cheesiness to some of the bites that couldn’t be explained simply by the parmesan shavings on top.

Having not had that many risottos in my life, I did wonder, are they all so pale? Is that traditional?

I was certain that the squash was zucchini, not butternut, and the chef confirmed it. (No doubt you’re thinking, “Of course that’s zucchini there in the lower left-hand corner,” but please keep in mind that I used a flash for this picture. I really couldn’t see what was in the food.) Where the eggplant was, I’ll never know. I could have eaten one-quarter of the dish and had enough, but I didn’t stop until all the rice pearls were gone.

Forest Room 5 is one of my favorite places in Denver, partly because I associate it with poetry (Lighthouse) and activism (I’ve been to meetings there) and partly because I once ordered the hot chocolate, which involved a massive mug of cocoa and peppermint schnapps and a selection of cookies. That is no longer on the menu, but the memory of it keeps drawing me back for more good things.

Denver Restaurants: Pajama Baking Company

Just the name conjures up comfort, doesn’t it? Todd and I found ours in the form of peppermint ice cream and a latte after Winterfest on South Pearl. We played a trivia game for kids and aced it (adult games are also available).

Pajama Baking Company has a fairly spacious interior, with seating for adults and children in the front and deli cases in the back. By the coffee stand (in the right-middle of the picture) was a sign for chair massages on Monday and Wednesday from 12 to 4.Pajama Baking interior Dec 2009As soon as you walk in past the old garage doors, you see the ice cream (outside the left margin of the picture above). But it’s not just a coffee and desserts shop. It also sells artisan breads and prepared meals such as the thin-crust pizza that tempted Todd, along with Mini-Moos cheese from Canon City and pasta and novelty items such as Too Haute Cowgirls candied popcorn. I was amused by the subtitle, “Hellbent for Chocolate.”Pajama Baking Too Haute Cowgirls Dec 2009

Like many restaurants and coffee shops, Pajama makes its wall space available to local artists. Pajama Baking painting by Jessica George Dec 2009Jessica George painted this Cubism-meets-Abstract-Symbolism piece. (The colors are not true. My camera wasn’t allowing me to adjusting aperture and shutter speed—just a slight drawback.)
Pajama Baking Company on Urbanspoon

Denver Restaurants: India’s Pearl

India’s Pearl has been a rumor in my ear for some time now, but it wasn’t until last Saturday India's Pearl exterior 2008that I actually sat down in the restaurant and had a proper meal. I’m not yet willing to award it the title of best Indian restaurant in the Denver Metro area. Possibly because of nostalgia, I’d still give that title to Royal Peacock in Boulder.

The restaurant itself is beautiful inside; India's Pearl entrance Dec 2009we sat in the main room, facing the wine display. There’s a bar upstairs where they have karaoke on Wednesdays. It’s more laid-back upstairs, though I wouldn’t call the main floor formal, just elegant.

The obligatory pappadums came with tamarind, mint, and onion chutney nicely arranged on a glass tray. Sometimes I wish servers would ask me if I wanted it; I suppose that’s like complaining about chips and salsa at a Mexican restaurant. Our appetizer, the vegetable lettuce wrap, wasn’t bad for comfort food. India's Pearl veggie lettuce wraps Dec 2009The peas, onions, potatoes, carrots, and bell peppers spiced with cardamom were hot and slightly firm but not at all spicy, as we’d asked.

India’s Pearl has one of the most intriguing menus I’ve ever seen at an Indian restaurant, including beef, scallops, lobster, duck, and quail along with plenty of chicken and vegetable entrees. So far I’ve tried only 3 dishes: a chicken korma that was darker, heavier, and less sweet than any other I’ve had; the chicken saag I ordered; and Todd’s Tandoori beef. India's Pearl Tandoori steak with lemon potatoes Dec 2009It was a novel sensation for me, tasting Tandoori spices on a relatively tender steak, and I would recommend it for that reason alone. But it was also very good, although the “lemon potatoes” should have been called “rosemary potatoes.” Todd thought my saag was heartier than most, and the blend of garlic, onion, and turmeric still tasted as good the next day.India's Pearl chicken saag Dec 2009

The naan, one of my favorite breads in the world, had been left sitting too long.

And that’s how it went at India’s Pearl: simple things were not executed as well as they should have been, but the more complex dishes really shone. I wish I lived closer to Denver’s  South Pearl neighborhood and had an excuse to try India’s Pearl more often. But with two Indian restaurants much closer to home, and another two—my favorites—in Boulder, India’s Pearl has a lot of competition.
India's Pearl on Urbanspoon

Denver Restaurants: Jonesy’s EatBar

Today I had every intention of writing about Scribbles in the South Platte River neighborhood, “a unique stationery and invitation boutique with a modern sense of grace.” Whatever. But my dated pictures of Halloween decorations stopped me from doing so. I need Christmas cards, so I’ll visit again and give you a more contemporary update soon. (Seriously, go check out the “About Us” page. It’s cute.)

In place of that, I give you Jonesy’s EatBar, a gastropub in Uptown. I’ve eaten there twice in its current incarnation, but I remember when it was the Painted Bench. I was taking a screenwriting class from Lighthouse Writers in 2002, and after many of the classes we would get dinner at the Painted Bench, on 20th Avenue west of Park Avenue, just a block or two from the instructor’s apartment.

I had charcuterie there, which was good. Sometime after 2002 the restaurant turned into the Dish, which I never visited. Then the owner of the Dish decided to simplify her life as a high-end restaurateur, and Jonesy’s was born in 2008.

Last spring, I went there with Denveater and had the Lamby Joe sliders with bacon, blue cheese, and caramelized onion, and the buffalo fries. Jonesys EatBar lamb sliders Uptown Denver 2009The blue cheese and hot sauce on the fries seemed like an afterthought, but the sliders had this tender, moist meat that I still dream about.

Denveater ordered the mac-and-cheese to take home, which I tasted. The “un-fancy, down-home” style didn’t make much of an impression. Perhaps I’m just a sucker for multiple cheeses a la Dazzle or D Bar. But when Todd and I went back months later and ordered the split fries (both mac-and-cheese fries and truffle and aioli fries), Jonesy's EatBar truffle and Mac and Cheese fries Oct 2009I changed my mind. It may have been the combination of potato and cheddar and bacon that made the difference. I ate most of them and left the truffle fries for Todd. Again, the topping there seemed incidental.

As if to make up for that indulgence, Todd ordered the Caesar Salad and I the Thai Green Curry Veggie Bowl. Jonesy's EatBar Thai gree curry veggie bowl Oct 2009Todd’s salad dressing had enough garlic and anchovy to be spicy and rich, whereas the veggie bowl was merely spicy without a lot of coconut or other flavor to make up for it.

One of Jonesy’s more endearing traits is its focus on Colorado craft beers and interesting wines. Neither of us drinks much beer, so we went for wine: in Todd’s case, the Aveleda Fonte Vinho Verde, which smelled of litchi and tasted of grapefruit; in my case, the Santa Rita Reserve Cabernet (Chile), which had very soft tannins and a warm fruit aroma.

At happy hour (M-F, 5-7, and Sunday night), wine is half-price and certain beers are $2.50. If you like a quieter dining scene, I suggest going then. Jonesy’s gets pretty loud when it’s full.
Jonesy's EatBar on Urbanspoon

Denver Restaurants: Paris on the Platte

At Paris on the Platte late Sunday morning, my waitress caught me photographing the menu and whisked it away after she took my order. I felt a little sheepish, but that passed as soon as she brought my “Providence”: 2 pieces of rye bread with an egg over easy on top of each, drizzled with lemon butter and cayenne, all for $3.95. Denver photosThe small house salad (overpriced at $3.95) huddled next to it; the cilantro ranch dressing tasted of hot pepper rather than cilantro.Paris house salad Denver Oct 2009

Denver’s oldest coffeehouse (according to the rather annoying website) is a great place to hang out, though definitely not a quiet place. The fun mix playing while I ate included Modest Mouse and Man Man. Also, those who are sensitive to smoke might be put off by a fume or two wafting in from the smoking room, which is not closed off but somehow manages to meet the legal requirements.

I remember going to Paris on the Platte with my writer’s group in the early 1990s. At that time, there were hardly any businesses in that area. I suppose My Brother’s Bar was open, but I don’t believe REI had moved to the confluence yet. I think Rock Island (1996–2006) was somewhere in the neighborhood, but my sense of Denver was so confused at the time, I remember little but a gray fog with coffeehouses and clubs rearing up out of it.

Paris on the Platte offers many details to delight the eye: brick walls to my left; a black, ridged ceiling near the door; red walls to my right with some of the two-by-fours exposed (Hasn’t that look been done for a while?); Paris interior saturation Denver Oct 2009and a large beige-and-black chessboard hung diagonally over the counter where you place your orders. Tucked in between the counter and the tables is the coffee roaster. Paris roaster Denver Oct 2009The smoking room is off to the left, and there is a cheery bathroom. Paris bathroom 1 Denver Oct 2009(I have a thing about photographing bathrooms. Someday I’ll do a Denver bathrooms series.) There is a wine bar next door that has a separate entrance.Paris wine exterior Denver Oct 2009

The menu features these categories: Breakfast, Hot Drinks, Cold Drinks (including milkshakes and malts), Boards (finger foods such as cheese and fruit), Sandwiches, Pizza, Salads, and Cakes. Paris on the Platte is located near 16th and Platte.

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I reviewed Paris on the Platte again on January 25, 2010.

Paris on the Platte on Urbanspoon

Five Points Walkabout

I almost didn’t do my walkabout on Wednesday. The forecast was gloomy: 70 percent chance of rain. It wouldn’t be any use to go to downtown Denver in such weather, would it?

Such are the musings of a woman spoiled by Denver’s 300 days of sunshine a year. Luckily, I didn’t give in to the urge to stay inside all day: it was fun to walk around in the light rain on Wednesday, even if Robert didn’t agree.

Robert was manning the register at Gallegos Produce, which has been open since April at the corner of Broadway and Larimer. As I took a picture of the exterior, Gallegos Produce Larimer Bway Denver Sep 2009I heard him calling. Maybe he was lonely in there with the eggplant and potatoes from Colorado and the last of the Rocky Ford cantaloupe and the lemons from California. I paused to look for the source of the voice and ended up going inside.

In response to a query about the weather, I told Robert I liked walking in the rain, and he asked me if I had ever been homeless. “No,” I said. He had been homeless for 8 years and said that being outside in the rain was no fun. Snow he didn’t mind, but being wet all day was terrible.

I liked the way Robert delivered his lesson without making me feel stupid.

***

That conversation was my one and only of the day. I’d started my walkabout on Larimer around 20th Street, where you can find places like pizza joints and pawn shops and the Ginn Mill and Herb’s. At 22nd and Larimer each corner is occupied, by Altitude Peak Fitness and the Whiskey Bar and Colorado Rehearsal Studios and the Hi-Rise Bakery. A block farther is the original location of Snooze, undergoing renovation so as to provide even better brunches, and across Park Avenue is Catholic Charities. Go southeast on Park a ways and you’ll be in the area where homeless men gather at night to wait in line for the shelters at Samaritan House and Denver Rescue Mission.

In other words, once you hit Park Avenue, the neighborhood is “in transition.” (Gallegos Produce is a block or two beyond Park. Robert warned me not to walk around this neighborhood at night, and I wasn’t as irritated by that kind of warning as I usually am. In mid-afternoon, the streets were merely shiny with rain and deserted, but I can imagine them being a little intimidating at night.)

I’m not exactly sure where Five Points starts. I think it would be more accurate to use “Curtis Park” to refer to the area from 22nd and Larimer to 30th and Larimer. But the Gallegos sign mentioned LoDo (Lower Downtown Denver), and you could also make a case that this is the Ballpark neighborhood, since it’s right next to Coors Field. Confused? Go look to my links page, click on Denver Infill, and look at the maps. For now, I’m sticking with Five Points.

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Sacred Heart Catholic Church sits between 27th and 28th.Sacred Heart Larimer Denver Sep 2009 I tried the doors, but they were locked. There’s not much else nearby except empty storefronts, 1 bar, the Hot House (open for breakfast, the sign says), Hot House Larimer Denver Sep 2009and Krav Maga at 29th. Krav Maga Larimer Denver Sep 2009A sign on the Strategy Room said it would be opening October 2nd.Strategy Room Open Oct 2 Larimer Denver Sep 2009

This area seems to be moving from industrial to urban residential, with lots of condos. But in the area around 30th and Lawrence, 130-year-old houses sit right next to apartments and condos. The Denver Enterprise Center takes up one corner, although no one seemed to be enterprising behind the fence on the other side of the building.Denver Enterprise Center and Kitchen Sep 2009

By the time I reached Mestizo-Curtis Park (the oldest official park in Denver), the rain had stopped.Curtis Park 31st and Arapahoe Denver Sep 2009I walked up to 32nd, where I found the offices of the Women’s Bean Project in the old Denver Fire Station No. 10. Women's Bean Project at DFD 1 Sep 2009On my way back down to 31st, I saw one man striding through the park and a woman playing with her dog. Otherwise the park and pool were quiet, Curtis Park pool murals Denver Sep 2009waiting for the sun to bring people back.Downtown view from Mestizo-Curtis Park Denver Sep 2009

I moseyed to the light rail station at 30th and Downing, and as I reached the parking lot noticed a stocky, brown-haired white man unscrewing a license plate from a white Tercel. The passenger door was open, and another man sat in the driver’s seat. When the unscrewer finished his job, he deposited the license plate in another vehicle, exchanged some money with the driver (a white man with a shaved head and black goatee). Then both of them drove off.

The things you see in Denver.

I walked down to Mocha Motive to get a drink, but it seems to have gone out of business since the summer.Mocha Motive Cafe closed I think Denver Sep 2009

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Later that night, after attending Member-Only Night at the Botanic Gardens, I stopped by the Tattered Cover in downtown Denver to read magazines. On my way back to Market Street Station, I noticed at least 3 homeless people on the long benches. One was already stretched out, covered with a light-colored blanket. I thought of the lows the past couple of nights—in the high 30s—and wondered where Robert was spending the night.

Denver Restaurants: Blackberries

The first time I went to Blackberries Ice Cream and Coffee Lounge, I’m not sure I knew that it was in Five Points. I’m not sure I even really knew what Five Points was. Lighthouse Writers was hosting a workshop there, so I showed up and really liked the place.

Located in The Point building, right where Welton, 27th, Washington, and East 26th Avenue form Five Points, Blackberries Coffee at The Point Denver May 2009Blackberries is pretty big as coffeehouses go. Tall windows in the front bathe the piano in light (the same piano played during the gig by Dr. Tone and the Notes at the Five Points Jazz Festival). The room is wide near the entrance and narrows along its length to the stage in back and the niche next to it.

Blackberries can accommodate a large crowd (and did during the Jazz Fest), but when I was there recently it was quiet. Blackberries table with Betty Boop Denver Sep 2009Two people were working the ice cream counter, a little girl was exploring while her mother had a meeting, and other patrons spoke softly to each other at their tables by the windows.

As is my wont, I began with dessert. Even though I asked for the smallest cone, I still got 2 hefty scoops of chocolate and sweet cream. The latter was nice enough, but the chocolate was truly rich. I also recommend the sweet potato pie ice cream.

The toddler came by and reached toward me. “No,” I said sternly, “this is MY ice cream.” But all she wanted was to hold hands.

I read my book for a while and then decided I should eat dinner at Blackberries rather than wait to eat at the Mercury Café (see my post about Transition Denver). I had my choice of breakfast (egg and cheese croissant or bagel, breakfast burritos), cold deli sandwiches, or hot paninis. I chose the Smokin’ Turkey, with provolone, red onion, tomato, avocado, and Cajun mustard.Blackberries smokin turkey panini Denver Sep 2009 I enjoyed the crisp bread and spicy mayo on that first bite, which was really good, though farther into the sandwich I thought the turkey must have come out of a plastic package.

Blackberries also sells pastries from Bluepoint Bakery on East 58th Avenue in Denver.

Finally, I had to drag myself away to the Merc. I had hoped for time to walk the western boundary of Five Points (that is, Larimer), but that had to wait until another day.
Blackberries Ice Cream on Urbanspoon

Denver Photos: Intrigue in Five Points I

This plaque featuring Billie Holiday graces the old Rossonian Hotel and harks back to the days when Five Points drew musicians from all over the country to perform. The Rossonian, which reminds me a bit of the Brown Palace, is a beautiful old building. The last few times I’ve been to Five Points, I’ve noticed the plastic on the inside of the windows, indicating that a remodel might be taking place. I’ve never seen any activity from the outside, though.

Rossonian sign Denver May 2009

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Head over to the Uptown neighborhood on Tuesday night (the vernal equinox) from 5 to 8:30 for the Uptown Sampler. There will be a bus to haul you from restaurant to restaurant for the samples. (It’s a pretty long walk from one end of Uptown to the other, so you’ll probably want the bus. To get to Uptown itself, take the 12 or the 20 from Market Street Station.)

It looks like D Bar Desserts is not participating, sadly, but their food isn’t very expensive. Go there after the sampler ends for one of their superb desserts (see the cake and shake below).D Bar cake and shake 2 Denver June 2009

On Wednesday, the Fillmore is hosting Dish Westword Menu Affair, an event along the same lines as the Uptown Sampler and Tasty Colfax and LoDo Bites. There will be a chef cookoff, with Keegan Gerhard of D Bar Desserts providing commentary and the Informants providing “background” music. Dish, which runs from 7 to 10:30, benefits Food Bank of the Rockies. The Fillmore is located at Colfax and Clarkson; the 15 bus will get you there.

Advance tickets for both events are $20; more the day of the event.

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For the first time this season, we turned on the heat. Fall is here.

Transition Denver Turns 1 Year Old at the Merc

Despite the thumping from dancers practicing their moves upstairs, the 20-plus people celebrating Transition Denver’s first birthday party at the Mercury Café Mercury Cafe Transition crowd Denver Sep 2009were able to discuss the way forward for the next year. Adam Brock of Wild Green Yonder (below center), who showed up late after his recent trip to Burning Man, promised, “This year we’ve taken the first steps of a really long journey.”

The Transition movement, begun in England as a response to the concept of peak oil, appeals to me. Michael Anderson, one of the founders of Transition Denver and a self-described activist (below left), said he loves it because it’s growing something, not fighting something.

But Dana Miller (below right), another founder, noted that the original Transition model for promoting local resilience was designed for small towns of 5,000 people or so. It’s much harder to apply that model to a metro area of 3 million people. She wants their small group of volunteers to turn into an umbrella group to help to guide neighborhood transition groups.Mercury Cafe Transition Dana Michael Adam 1 Sep 2009

Dana, whom I met years ago when she and Todd and I were involved in a cohousing project, is a natural leader. She’s good at inspiring and directing people and was able to extract pages of ideas from the crowd, from a barter guide to Skype conferences among Transitioners worldwide so they can share ideas.

Everyone agreed that the main activity of the first year—awareness raising—would continue, and the evening ended with gluten-free cake.

Denver Restaurants on Santa Fe: El Noa Noa

Dining at El Noa Noa last Friday was like dropping in on fam in the country when they were not expecting you. It was summertime, so the house was nearly deserted inside. Everyone was outside on the large patio, enclosed by brick walls and ironwork gates, sitting at tables under the trees, chatting and drinking and eating.El Noa Noa door Denver Aug 2009

A three-man band played guitar and two pan flutes in a corner, but nobody clapped until we did. A conga drum lay on its side in front of one musician. In between songs, the sound of the waterfall soothed us.

The waiters were content that we had arrived but were not going to get worked up about it. They brought what we asked for and then became engrossed in other things.

El Noa Noa parrot Todd Denver Aug 2009I ordered a shot of Tesoro de Don Felipe añejo and enjoyed its smoky goodness, as usual. (The first time I ever had it was at 3 Margaritas, in a tiny brandy snifter too small to accommodate my nose. This time, thankfully, the tequila came in a shot glass.) The chips were nothing special, though according to Todd they were homemade, and the salsa was medium.

In an unusual turn of events, I had no desire for mole, so I chose the tacos de pescado, which consisted of 4 small tacos with tilapia in a garlic sauce. The fish was light and moist, and the entire taco tasted like garlic and onion; the sweet onion sauce (served in a plastic mustard bottle) and the chipotle (in a ketchup bottle) were both too sweet and completely unnecessary. The tacos had plenty of flavor (perhaps a bit too much) on their own.

Todd ordered the steak tampiqueña plate, featuring a skirt steak that was tender and dusted with cumin, a cheese enchilada, rice, and beans.El Noa Noa tacos de pescado Denver Aug 2009

Once we had eaten enough of our meals to actually see the plates, we noticed they were that familiar Pfaltzgraff brown-on-ivory pattern—another reminder of childhood left behind. And finally, when I asked for flan for dessert, the waiter said—regretfully, I would like to think—that they had run out and were making more at that very moment. He asked if I would like sopapillas, but I said no.

El Noa Noa patio Saturday Denver Aug 2009By the end of dinner, I was so relaxed I couldn’t get too worked up about the missing flan either. Instead we went home and dreamt of Mexican beaches on the Riviera Maya, and we were content.
El Noa Noa on Urbanspoon

Downtown Denver Restaurants: India House*

Todd and I arrived at India House in downtown Denver after a Saturday afternoon of missed connections.India House exterior Denver Aug 2009

He hadn’t meant to come all the way to downtown Denver; in fact, he had been in Boulder and generously decided to drive to the Merchandise Mart to pick me up from Earthworks Expo. But by the time we talked on the phone, I was already on the 7, heading southeast to downtown Denver. (I could have taken a bus north from the Merchandise Mart to Broomfield, but then I would have been stranded several miles from home because of reduced service on the weekends.)

So he drove a little farther to meet me, and we headed to the mini–restaurant row on Blake between 16th and 15th Streets. We had our pick of Caribbean, Mexican, Moroccan, BBQ, a sports bar…that’s all I can remember. But I chose the Indian restaurant. When Todd saw that the prices on the menu outside were 50 percent higher than at other Indian restaurants we frequent, he announced, “It had better be fuckin’ good.”

Saturday was the day the cellulitis on his leg really started bothering him, which did not improve his mood.

India House is elegant inside, dark and cool. It’s a long, narrow restaurant with an upstairs that overlooks the entrance. That area would be a great place to reserve for a private party, except that the bathrooms and the bar are upstairs too, so one group could never have it entirely to themselves.

The service was unhurried, but we waited too long only at the beginning of our meal. After that, everything arrived when it should. They brought us pappadum with two house-made chutneys.India house chutneys Denver Aug 2009The tamarind was so red I didn’t recognize it; usually it’s brown. The mint-jalapeno chutney was refreshing, and both chutneys were spicy. Not what I expected, considering how the website mentions the chef’s “low threshold for chili.”

Next came Todd’s mulligatawny soup. There was a lot to like: the thin broth was lemony, with just a little diced chicken. But it was too salty.

I wish I had turned over the cauliflower pakora before I took this picture; India House veg pakoras Denver Aug 2009the pattern created by slicing it in half was beautiful. They were best hot, just come from the kitchen, but they were still decent well into the meal.

The chicken tikki saag was rich and flavorful—again, except for the salt. Whatever happened to the “subtlety of delicate spicing” mentioned on the website? The heat was right—I asked for medium, and I got it, which is somewhat rare at Indian restaurants—but only the pakoras were subtly spiced.India House chicken tikki saag Denver Aug 2009

Todd and I were a little disappointed by this meal, but at least he wasn’t hungry anymore, and his leg wasn’t bothering him—that is, until he stood up and had to walk on it. We didn’t know it then, but there were antibiotics in his future.

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*I didn’t realize that India House used to be Delhi Darbar. I had been to their restaurant in Boulder a couple of times but was never completely blown away. Perhaps the Denver location is now the only one left.
Delhi Darbar on Urbanspoon