Denver Restaurants: India’s Pearl

India’s Pearl has been a rumor in my ear for some time now, but it wasn’t until last Saturday India's Pearl exterior 2008that I actually sat down in the restaurant and had a proper meal. I’m not yet willing to award it the title of best Indian restaurant in the Denver Metro area. Possibly because of nostalgia, I’d still give that title to Royal Peacock in Boulder.

The restaurant itself is beautiful inside; India's Pearl entrance Dec 2009we sat in the main room, facing the wine display. There’s a bar upstairs where they have karaoke on Wednesdays. It’s more laid-back upstairs, though I wouldn’t call the main floor formal, just elegant.

The obligatory pappadums came with tamarind, mint, and onion chutney nicely arranged on a glass tray. Sometimes I wish servers would ask me if I wanted it; I suppose that’s like complaining about chips and salsa at a Mexican restaurant. Our appetizer, the vegetable lettuce wrap, wasn’t bad for comfort food. India's Pearl veggie lettuce wraps Dec 2009The peas, onions, potatoes, carrots, and bell peppers spiced with cardamom were hot and slightly firm but not at all spicy, as we’d asked.

India’s Pearl has one of the most intriguing menus I’ve ever seen at an Indian restaurant, including beef, scallops, lobster, duck, and quail along with plenty of chicken and vegetable entrees. So far I’ve tried only 3 dishes: a chicken korma that was darker, heavier, and less sweet than any other I’ve had; the chicken saag I ordered; and Todd’s Tandoori beef. India's Pearl Tandoori steak with lemon potatoes Dec 2009It was a novel sensation for me, tasting Tandoori spices on a relatively tender steak, and I would recommend it for that reason alone. But it was also very good, although the “lemon potatoes” should have been called “rosemary potatoes.” Todd thought my saag was heartier than most, and the blend of garlic, onion, and turmeric still tasted as good the next day.India's Pearl chicken saag Dec 2009

The naan, one of my favorite breads in the world, had been left sitting too long.

And that’s how it went at India’s Pearl: simple things were not executed as well as they should have been, but the more complex dishes really shone. I wish I lived closer to Denver’s  South Pearl neighborhood and had an excuse to try India’s Pearl more often. But with two Indian restaurants much closer to home, and another two—my favorites—in Boulder, India’s Pearl has a lot of competition.
India's Pearl on Urbanspoon

Downtown Denver Restaurants: India House*

Todd and I arrived at India House in downtown Denver after a Saturday afternoon of missed connections.India House exterior Denver Aug 2009

He hadn’t meant to come all the way to downtown Denver; in fact, he had been in Boulder and generously decided to drive to the Merchandise Mart to pick me up from Earthworks Expo. But by the time we talked on the phone, I was already on the 7, heading southeast to downtown Denver. (I could have taken a bus north from the Merchandise Mart to Broomfield, but then I would have been stranded several miles from home because of reduced service on the weekends.)

So he drove a little farther to meet me, and we headed to the mini–restaurant row on Blake between 16th and 15th Streets. We had our pick of Caribbean, Mexican, Moroccan, BBQ, a sports bar…that’s all I can remember. But I chose the Indian restaurant. When Todd saw that the prices on the menu outside were 50 percent higher than at other Indian restaurants we frequent, he announced, “It had better be fuckin’ good.”

Saturday was the day the cellulitis on his leg really started bothering him, which did not improve his mood.

India House is elegant inside, dark and cool. It’s a long, narrow restaurant with an upstairs that overlooks the entrance. That area would be a great place to reserve for a private party, except that the bathrooms and the bar are upstairs too, so one group could never have it entirely to themselves.

The service was unhurried, but we waited too long only at the beginning of our meal. After that, everything arrived when it should. They brought us pappadum with two house-made chutneys.India house chutneys Denver Aug 2009The tamarind was so red I didn’t recognize it; usually it’s brown. The mint-jalapeno chutney was refreshing, and both chutneys were spicy. Not what I expected, considering how the website mentions the chef’s “low threshold for chili.”

Next came Todd’s mulligatawny soup. There was a lot to like: the thin broth was lemony, with just a little diced chicken. But it was too salty.

I wish I had turned over the cauliflower pakora before I took this picture; India House veg pakoras Denver Aug 2009the pattern created by slicing it in half was beautiful. They were best hot, just come from the kitchen, but they were still decent well into the meal.

The chicken tikki saag was rich and flavorful—again, except for the salt. Whatever happened to the “subtlety of delicate spicing” mentioned on the website? The heat was right—I asked for medium, and I got it, which is somewhat rare at Indian restaurants—but only the pakoras were subtly spiced.India House chicken tikki saag Denver Aug 2009

Todd and I were a little disappointed by this meal, but at least he wasn’t hungry anymore, and his leg wasn’t bothering him—that is, until he stood up and had to walk on it. We didn’t know it then, but there were antibiotics in his future.

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*I didn’t realize that India House used to be Delhi Darbar. I had been to their restaurant in Boulder a couple of times but was never completely blown away. Perhaps the Denver location is now the only one left.
Delhi Darbar on Urbanspoon

Denver Restaurants on Capitol Hill: Little India

little-india-exterior-denver-2009Little India
330 East 6th Avenue (6th and Grant)
Capitol Hill, Denver
303-871-9777
Bus directions: Take the 0 from Market Street Station to 6th and Broadway and walk east (or take the 6)

Maybe it was a mistake to walk down Sixth Avenue from Broadway east to Downing at lunchtime. I was hungry but had no idea what I really wanted for lunch. Something will strike me, I thought, which turned out to be a prophecy.

As I stood at the corner of Sixth and Broadway, I drank in the smell of grilled food, even if it was from the Burger King. I decided against Il Vicino, where I’ve had dinner at least once (apparently it made no impression on me), ignored the chain restaurants at The Shops at Sixth and Broadway and Broadway Central, and turned my back on the mountains.

I took a good long look at Daphne’s Greek Café (a western chain established in San Diego in 1991); Racine’s, which had an awfully nice patio; and a sushi joint whose name I didn’t write down. I kept walking. It was the sign for Little India, tucked up behind a unprepossessing building, that finally convinced me to get out of the sun scorching the top of my head.

(Women who are losing their hair should have enough sense to wear hats, but I cordially dislike them. I think it’s time to buy a wig. I suspect it would be as uncomfortable as a hat, but at least my hair would look better.)

Little India on 6th was the first location in the Denver area; others followed at 15th and Champa and on South Downing. When I walked in, it took my eyes a minute to adjust to the dark, cool interior. The restaurant was busy, so unfortunately they seated me by the front, next to the buffet. If I’d been paying more attention, I would have asked for a two-top against the back wall. At least I didn’t have to walk far to get my food.

I took advantage of the buffet, which is to say, I ate a lot: 2 servings of saag, 2 of chicken tandoori, salad, mango custard, and several pieces of naan. The saag was rich and spicy (the best I’ve ever had, I think), and the tandoori was salmon-colored and smoky. The chicken curry was nothing special. My server at Little India did not bring fresh naan to my table; it was piled on the buffet, and then a mad rush followed. It would have been better fresh.

Pet peeve: every Indian restaurant I’ve visited covers its buffets with an incredibly low hood. Is an Indian buffet meant only for short people? Or people with very long arms? Am I supposed to stick my head under there? That would seem to defeat the purpose of the hood.

Other than my struggles with the hood, and the table right next to the buffet, I managed to enjoy my lunch and read my book about magical cats. The staff were gracious about letting me take this picture of the bar (there are many more on the animated website).little-india-bar-6th-and-grant-denver-2009

Unfortunately, by the time I walked four blocks down 6th to Pablo’s (see the end of this post), I was desperately in need of a bathroom. I’m not certain it was any particular thing I ate. It could have been the coffee I had in the morning (even decaf will sometimes upset my stomach) or the huge amounts of food I ate at lunch.

All I can say is, thank God for Pablo’s.

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P.S. I’ve been to Little India before, and I’ll go there again if the occasion is right. I’ve had too many sensitivity incidents with my digestive system to blame it on the restaurant at this point.
Little India on Urbanspoon