Capitol Hill, Denver: Across 6th Avenue and up Downing

On a good day of exploration for this blog, I rediscover places I’ve been before. It feels like pieces of a puzzle falling into place.

Like the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, ethiopian-church-exterior-couldnt-get-in-denver-2009which I first saw last spring on a tour of the Alamo Placito neighborhood with Phil Goodstein (whose tours I recommend). We were there on Sunday, and all these black women were coming out of church in blindingly white dresses. It was stunning.

(I tried to peek into the church today, but all three doors were locked. The mailman caught me coming out the gate but said nothing about it.)

I met up with myself in memory than once today. At Pablo’s on 6th,pablos-coffee-exterior-denver-2009 I ran into Steve Katz, one of my teachers from graduate school at CU, and he graciously sat down and talked to me. He told me that he had almost left Denver when he retired from the University of Colorado, but he decided to stay because it’s a culturally vital city. He thinks most areas of New York City, where he grew up, are declining more than they are revitalizing, but Denver is on its way up. There is a lot to do here, and you don’t have to plan months and months ahead to get tickets to the ballet or plays.

The trouble with meeting your grad school teachers is that they inevitably ask, “Are you still writing?” And I honestly answered “Yes,” telling him about the novel I began last year and then laid aside and then took up again when I got the oh-so-original idea of doing the synopsis before writing it (which is a first for me). But the truth is, I had a long period after the turn of the millennium when I wanted to stop. Or maybe I just wanted to rest and spend my time catching up on reading. I think now I should have done just that, instead of rewriting and submitting my collection of stories until I got burned out in 2005.

I told him I was tired of copyediting, and he said it must be tedious. It wasn’t when I started, of course, just as he liked teaching when he started in the 1960s.

But he said he’d never gotten tired of writing. That was good to hear.

Capitol Hill, Denver: Ink and Red

Red Room exterior, Denver 2009

The Red Room
320 East Colfax Avenue
Capitol Hill, Denver
303-830-7050
Bus directions: take the mall shuttle from Market Street and walk up Colfax
Note: The Red Room closed in spring 2009.

Saturday night Todd and I were due for some fun, after he spent Friday night at a hotel undergoing testing for sleep apnea, while I shoveled the deck and painted my toenails. I tried to spice up the night with a little Jude Law in My Blueberry Nights, but the disc was hosed.

There’s been a lot of local buzz going on about a film called Ink, shot in Denver and produced by a couple of Denverites. The theater at Starz was packed—not a regular occurrence—and the assault began.

Good versus evil, storytellers versus incubi, that is—and the film’s effects versus my eyeballs. I’m not a huge fan of cinematography that’s hard to watch, like The Constant Gardener (How could anyone make me not want to watch Ralph Fiennes?), but Ink was definitely worth the retinal torture. (The third paragraph of this review describes it better than I can. And you can watch the trailer here.)

The first half of the movie was a nightmare version of my explorations of Denver, never knowing what you’re going to find around the next corner.denver-alley-colfax-2-2009 Why is this black-robed Druidic figure dragging this gleaming blonde child behind him? What does he want? He tells us, it doesn’t quite make sense, so we keep following along.

Like the Pathfinder, my favorite character, the movie is at first annoyingly self-absorbed and then reluctantly revealing. Most of the characters inhabit the dream world and only pop in to visit us at night, when they give us good or bad dreams. The Pathfinder was the most liminal of the characters, blinded but able to change physical reality by tuning in to the beat of life. His scenes alone were worth the price of the movie.

After all that metaphysicalness, I wanted to stay out, and we drove to the Red Room, on Colfax on the edge of Capitol Hill. I was expecting something a little gritty, like, say, Lion’s Lair—view-from-same-cafe-colfax-denver-20091it wasn’t, and it wasn’t swank, either, like the Oceanaire, although the burgundy-colored booths looked nice from the top floor. The bar itself was impressive, Red Room bar, Denver 2009but the patrons were mostly college kids or twenty-somethings, and not even enough of them to fill the place by 11, when we left.

The Red Room changed ownership a year or so ago, and I think it hasn’t quite found its groove. Or maybe the time to go there is happy hour and the drink to order is a martini, judging from the selection of vodka. The reviews on Citysearch mentioned chefs coming over from Nine75 and Epcots Living Seas Restaurant, which might account for the “tenders” (huge pieces of chicken) battered with Frosted Flakes. They looked spiky and scaryred-room-chicken-tenderss-denver-2009 but were sweet as could be, though the batter definitely didn’t want to hang out with the chicken a second longer than necessary. I ate most of the fries while arguing with Todd over whether they were hand-cut.

And then the band started channeling Stevie Ray Vaughan and we hung over the railing and swayed back and forth. Two women danced in front of the door, and the drummer had a great time.

Denver Restaurants on Capitol Hill: City, O’ City

City, O' City exterior, Denver 2009City, O’ City
206 East 13th Avenue (next to Watercourse Bakery)
13th and Sherman
Capitol Hill, Denver
303-831-6443
Open until 2 am every night
Bus directions:take the 0 from Market Street Station to Broadway and 13th; walk east to Sherman

On an extended mosey up 13th Avenue to see the off-Colfax regions of Capitol Hill, I came upon City, O’ City. As soon as I stepped through the door I got a big welcome city-o-city-welcome-sign-denver-2009and went to sit at the bar.

I had heard this place was a hangout for the Capitol Hill crowd, but it looked far too laid-back for that. It was also fairly empty on a Saturday. And I soon realized it was a vegetarian restaurant, which I hadn’t expected at all. I must have decided in my head that it was a wood-paneled, dark, very masculine kind of place that served large helpings of meat.

I ordered one of the specials, a Garden Pie, which sounded intriguing. While dreams of quiche filled my head, I sipped my cup of Jasmine Pouchong tea, one of their top-shelf selections at $2.53 per mismatched cup and saucer.

The 10-inch Garden Pie was not quiche, of course, but a pizza unlike any I’ve ever had before:city-o-city-garden-pie-denver-2009 no cheese, drenched in the reduction, and covered with small pieces of arugula and tomatoes and asparagus and onion. When my waitress in the low-backed dress put it on the bar in front of me, it was steaming. Amazingly, despite the reduction everywhere, the crust was still crisp through the first and even the second pieces (I ate three and had to leave the rest because I didn’t want to carry it around). It was not elegantly presented, but for a salad on pizza crust, it tasted good and provided a lot of nourishment for $9—enough food for two people, or even three who wanted a light meal.

Sometime during the second piece of pizza, my leg began to go numb. I sat at the bar so I could talk to the staff, but I think a table would be more comfortable than the wobbly black-and-silver bar stools. The music, described as “down tempo” on the website, was funky and vaguely new age by turns. Behind me sat a young woman in a white beret, reading; another skinny young woman in black leather leggings came in to order some coffee.

One of the servers, who had corkscrew brown curls and was wearing a shiny red-and-black-checked shirt, city-o-city-interior-denver-2009told me that Watercourse Foods had been here until a couple of years ago, and after it moved to a new location in Uptown Denver, the owners opened City, O’ City in the old space. Right next door is Watercourse Bakery, where you can get gluten-free baked goods.

So the name has changed and the menu has (mostly) changed and a wall was knocked out, but the vibe is the same. Politicos come by for lunch or a drink and sit down with their opponents and relax. Then they go back to the Capitol and resume their battles. But it’s not just lobbyists and lawyers: the young artists who attend the Art Institute of Colorado at 12th and Lincoln like the cheap food too.

So what is City, O’ City, besides a place with a funny, vaguely poetic name? A vegetarian restaurant? A pizza joint? A coffeehouse? A bar that stays open until 2 am?

I suspect it will require more investigation.
City, O' City on Urbanspoon