Denver’s 16th Street Mall: What May Be

16th-street-mall-sign-denver-june-20091Sometimes it’s necessary to write not about what is but what could be. That’s the subject of my post today: the 16th Street Mall’s inadequacies and how they might be amended.

I was standing outside Only in Colorado, taking some notes, when a man with a thick accent (Italian, perhaps) approached me. At first I didn’t get what he wanted, but he pulled at the sleeve of his coat and said “shirts,” and I understood he needed to find a men’s clothing store. I was stumped. I thought, I don’t know much about Denver after all. Then I looked in my downtown Denver directory and found two stores for men, Homer Reed on Tremont and Players on Wazee. They’re at opposite ends of the mall.

I suppose I could have sent him to T. J. Maxx or Ross Dress for Less—I think both those stores have men’s departments. But instead I sent him to the Pavilions.

Once department stores (like Cottrell’s) cottrells-and-only-in-colorado-16th-street-mall-denver-june-20091vied for customers on 16th Street, before it became an outdoor mall* in the late 1970s. For upscale shopping these days, you have to go to Cherry Creek. And there are a few shops in Larimer Square in lower downtown Denver. Almost everything else is in a suburban mall.

In May I explored upper downtown, which reaches northwest to Welton, and in June and July I’ll be continuing northwest through downtown. The two blocks from Welton to California and Stout reach the apogee of chainification. Taco Bell, Pizza Hut, Arby’s, Einstein Brothers Bagels. Then Walgreen’s, a 7-Eleven, some banks, a Starbucks every two blocks.

The center strip on the 16th Street Mall, which is dotted with benches and chess tables16th-street-mall-chess-denver-june-2009 and hot dog and shave ice carts, is a nice place to rest and watch the flow. But the wide sidewalks on either side of this two-block strip don’t lead past interesting shops.

People in Denver love to blame the poor shopping downtown on Cherry Creek Mall and the surrounding boutiques in Cherry Creek North, but let’s face it, department stores have been fading away for years. They were some of the first chain stores, and my personal opinion is that most chains will have to shrink to survive, both the number of stores and their size, or break themselves into regional shopping companies. If we want good shopping downtown, we’ll have to get smaller stores, which will require innovation and dedication from the citizens and government of Denver.

Denver Infill wants a grocery store downtown, which would certainly be convenient. (Right now Cook’s Fresh Market and Vitamin Cottage are the only options, and the latter isn’t really in downtown.) I prefer Lisa Rogers’s idea of greenhouses connected to markets, a more interesting concept than a Safeway or King Soopers, but unlikely to be developed as soon.

But what if Denver produced a hybrid? A combination of a big grocery store that contracted out its produce section to Rogers and its supplement section to Vitamin Cottage and its meat and seafood section to Whole Foods (hey, I can dream). If it were housed in one of the old buildings on the mall, which are several stories tall, it might need extra space for lots of escalators and elevators. The lack of parking in the area would be addressed by providing superior delivery services.

What do you think?

Lemongrass and T-Shirts in Downtown Denver

ans-lemongrass-grill-interior-denver-june-2009An’s Lemongrass Grill
1617B California Street
downtown Denver
720-889-0383
Bus directions: take the mall shuttle from Market Street Station

An’s Lemongrass Grill caught my eye on a recent walkabout of downtown Denver. I visited it Tuesday on a rainy June day when the high reached only the fifties. It was one of those days that reminded me how unpredictable spring can be in Colorado. Fall is generally a much better time to visit, weather-wise.

An’s, slightly off the mall toward 17th Street, had a well-designed logo, but I couldn’t get a decent picture of the exterior. The interior was well-designed, unless you want to go to the hard-to-find bathroom during a rush. The menu is a bit cheeky—”Asian Portion,” “Texas Portion,” “Main Course”—but what I noticed first was the overabundance of plastic. No compostables here.

Even the table looked to be made of plastic with a bamboo pattern. Of the two dishes I ordered—main course with brown rice and chicken, and crab and asparagus soup—the soup was better. ans-lemongrass-grill-main-course-and-soup-denver-june-2009Cloudy with shreds of crab and slices of white asparagus, it tasted of the latter with a hint of crab. There was too much brown rice for me in the Asian portion, and the chicken tasted precooked and warmed over.

The downtown lunch crowd flowed in and out of An’s when I was there; obviously the food and the plastic containers suited them better than me. One of the awards hanging on the wall dated to 2002. Maybe it was an off-day.

After lunch, I crossed California to visit the Denver Visitor Information Center at the “California Mall,” which used to include a food court, though the shadows of those words are not visible in this picture. The visitors center is to the left of the orange question mark.calif-mall-downtown-denver-tourist-info-june-2009 I recommend it for visitors and residents alike; I had never heard of the Purple Martini bar in the Tabor Center, for example. You can buy tickets to events in Denver at the center, and there are several people there ready to help you find entertainment.

My final stop of the day solved a mystery. I’d seen this store and called it “Cottrell’s,” cottrells-and-only-in-colorado-16th-street-mall-denver-june-2009but that was the name of a former department store, possibly a locally owned one. The contemporary store, Only in Colorado, is one of three on the mall owned by two brothers (and another works for them) named Young Chung. According to the clerk at the Welcome to Denver Store down the mall a few blocks, the three brothers have different middle names.

It was confusing for both of us.

At Only in Colorado, the neatness of the T-shirt racks astounded me. I wanted to buy the T-shirt that read, “If you don’t speak to your cat about catnip, who will?” There was no fitted version, so I settled for a hot pink Denver T-shirt.

Only in Colorado is THE place to get a touristy T-shirt in downtown Denver.only-in-colorado-interior-16th-street-mall-denver-june-2009 The other stores have similar merchandise but are much smaller. One or more of these stores has been in business on the mall for 40 years. They sell sand paintings and moccasins, small Western sculptures (some of the Mill Creek Studios creations were appealing), leather hats (“USA” on the top label, “Made in China” on the one underneath), and “genuine Indian handcrafted jewelry,” though I didn’t see any certificates of authentication.
An's Lemongrass Grille on Urbanspoon

Downtown Denver Restaurants: Appaloosa Grill

denver-mayor-john-hickenlooper-appaloosa-grill-december-1-2008Appaloosa Grill
535 16th Street (16th and Welton)
upper downtown Denver
720-932-1700
Open 7 days a week; live music every night
Bus directions: take the mall shuttle from Market Street Station

Ever since I attended a Mile High Business Alliance event at the Appaloosa Grill, which featured impressive appetizers and local beer, I’ve been wanting to eat dinner there.

Alas, fate in the form of Stang Auto Tech intervened last Friday. The $3,000 of long-delayed service on the truck wouldn’t be done in time for us to pick it up and drive to downtown Denver by dinner. We canceled our patio reservation and settled for brunch on Sunday.

Appaloosa Grill is at the corner of 16th and Welton, in a beautiful red-stone building, the Masonic Building, which was gutted by fire in the 1980s.masonic-building-16th-street-mall-denver-june-2009 The Horse was originally owned by Mayor John Hickenlooper’s company, Wynkoop Brewing, but was sold to Johnny James Qualley and Adam Hill, members of the local roots rock band Oakhurst, and a couple of other investors.

When I walked in, I was startled by how empty the place was.appaloosa-grill-empty-bar-denver-june-2009 I thought, brunch in downtown Denver, we’ll have to wait for half an hour, right? But I guess the hot places for brunch in Denver are Dixon’s (in LoDo) and Snooze on Park Avenue.

The Horse has a small patio, which was already full, so we took a booth with a view of the mall. One of my first sights out the window was a white horse and buggy carrying a white family down the mall. The second was of a black man in an apron on the corner. At first I thought he must be one of the cooks, taking a break.

“Hit the Road, Jack” was playing as we sat down, but luckily that wasn’t a hint about our brunch. I ordered the Spotted Horse Scramble, with cheddar, roasted red pepper, and black bean and corn succotash. appaloosa-spotted-horse-scramble-downtown-denver-june-2009It was barely warm when it came out, but I liked the cheesy egg flavor. What I noticed most was the mixture of textures: egg and bean and soft sweet pepper and juicy corn. The sourdough toast was light and crisp, and when I asked the waitress for jelly, she brought grape because that was all they had.

Todd’s breakfast burrito had a slightly spicy green chili and perhaps a few too many potatoes inside, given that I had half a plate of them sautéed in paprika.appaloosa-breakfast-burrito-denver-june-2009

Brunch neither impressed me overmuch nor depressed me. It was good, solid food, more originally presented than it would be at, say, the Hard Rock Café across the street, and in reasonable portions. I’ve eaten brunch at Dixon’s before in lower downtown Denver, but what I remember about that restaurant was the long patio that allows great people-watching.

I’d be willing to go back to Appaloosa Grill for dinner, but most of all I want to go there sometime after 10 and hear some roots rock and see the website-fabled crowd: “The crowd leans a little older than you’d find in LoDo . . . and far more accessible. It’s hip enough to be hip without making the tragically unhip feel completely unwelcome.”

What a relief.

Perhaps I could even see Oakhurst play. They used to play the Horse more regularly, but our waitress said they tour a lot. When they do play the restaurant, though, it fills up.appaloosa-bar-with-patrons-denver-june-2009

When we left, around 1 pm, “Georgia” was playing, and there were 7 people sitting at the bar. On the corner outside, the man in the apron was trying to convince a young man to part with his shoes for a shine. But the latter had headphones in his ears. He wasn’t ignoring the older man—he didn’t hear him.

Two different eras, on the corner of the 16th Street Mall where the Masonic Building sits.
Appaloosa Grill on Urbanspoon

Downtown Denver Restaurants: Cook’s Fresh Market

cooks-fresh-market-downtown-denver-restaurants-may-2009Cook’s Fresh Market
1600 Glenarm Place, Suite 100
downtown Denver
303-893-2277
Closed Sunday
Bus directions: take the mall shuttle from Market Street Station

I can’t count the times I’ve passed Cook’s Fresh Market while taking the mall shuttle through downtown Denver. And every time I said to myself, “I’ve got to check this place out.”

I finally did that Tuesday. I picked up some chicken green chili soup and Cajun remoulade and managed to resist all the luscious-looking desserts and homemade breads.

When I was there, at 2 in the afternoon, the tables facing the 16th Street Mall were still pretty full and people were standing in line at the deli. Nobody accosted me about taking pictures in the store, probably because the counters are so high that a 5’7″ person like myself can’t see over them. There was a sign stating the obvious and advising people to yodel. Seriously, though, it’s not a terribly user-friendly design.

In any case, I didn’t need to order any of the meat or fish, though the Famous French Hangar Steak sounded intriguing, as did the bacon-wrapped jumbo sea scallops. I moved on to the deli, where I noted sesame-roasted sweet potatoes and bleu cheese chicken salad.

Getting the point here? (The “bleu” gives it away.) A little beyond your basic deli, with prices to match. cooks-fresh-market-desserts-denver-may-2009There’s a list of all their products on the website, including such things as “summer meat bundles,” if you’re the kind of person who likes to get off work in downtown Denver and purchase 29 pounds of meat. And I did notice, Denveater, that they order most of their fish from Foley’s Fish of Boston.

But I had to laugh at this statement on the website about the opening of the downtown store, their second in the Denver Metro area: “Their heralded opening is as important to Denver as was the opening of Dean and DeLuca in New York’s SoHo years earlier.”

Hyperbole aside, the two items I bought were good. The carrots and potatoes and onions in the chicken green chili soup were firm, not mushy, and the small pieces of chicken were wonderfully soft. The soup was just spicy enough for semi-wimpy people like me. Both takeout containers appear to be reusable.cooks-fresh-market-lulu-grilling-sauce-denver-may-2009

I’m writing this while Todd is lying on the couch, trying to figure out what to do with the Cajun remoulade, since we have no shrimp or sliced asparagus. Myself, I thought it tasted fine with carrots and crackers.

Cook’s Fresh Market offers a large selection of dried fruit and a good-sized open cooler full of cheese, including Cotswold, German Butterkase, cave-aged Tallegio, Pecorino Romano, and Whiskey Cheddar. The salad bar was squeezed into a small space but looked well-stocked. The store’s produce section is small, but the website mentions their insistence that everything be as fresh as possible.cooks-fresh-market-desserts-denver-may-2009

Cook’s Fresh Market won’t fulfill Denver Infill‘s wish for a downtown Denver grocery store. It’s not quite as big or as well-stocked as Marczyk Fine Foods in Uptown Denver, but it’s a good place to stop for a sandwich or high-quality meats or cheese or desserts.

Downtown Denver Arts Festival: Beauty and Oddities and Then Some

wen-chocolate-pear-hazelnut gourmet truffle-denver-may-2009Saturday I made my way to the Downtown Denver Arts Festival, an event with 11 years of history in this town. But I took the long way there.

My husband dropped me off west of the Platte River, at 15th and Platte, an area that used to be off the beaten track. For as long as I can remember, Paris on the Platte has been serving coffee there, but now it keeps company with Vitamin Cottage and new housing and my first stop on the tour that would lead to downtown Denver: Wen Chocolates.

I don’t visit Wen often enough to get to know the staff, especially now that I’m on a diet. But Saturday was my splurge day, so I went to the tiny store (maybe 100 square feet) and started ordering truffles. As always, I got some freebies, one of which pleasantly surprised me: the rosemary truffle, my favorite of the day. It looks plain but has a distinct, delicate flavor of rosemary. Prazen Sladkor is simply the best caramel I’ve ever had, and the pear hazelnut (pictured) is awfully pretty. I couldn’t taste the pear at all; next time I order it, I’ll eat it first.

Sometimes my tours of Denver give me the feeling I’m passing through people’s lives ghost-wise. Today I sat at the confluence of the Platte River and Cherry Creek, content, trying to make the chocolates last longer than 5 minutes and watching people wade in the cold shallows across the river.

As I crossed Millennium Bridgemillennium-bridge-denver-union station may-2009 on my way to the mall shuttle, I passed a wedding party swank enough to afford two photographers. Everyone but the bride wore black; I liked the bridesmaids’ sleek black satin dresses better than her elaborately appliquéd froth of a dress.

The thing I like about the shuttle is its ability to bring Denver to me. It carries everyone: tourists, the homeless, downtown Denver workers. I also like to study the storefronts on one side of the 16th Street Mall or the other, to memorize downtown Denver.

I could see no sign anywhere of the Downtown Denver Arts Festival, so I turned back to the passengers. The man next to me studied the RTD schedule changes intently. He was a regular at RTD board meetings, he said, flashing a grin with more gum than teeth.

By Welton, the festival materialized: white booths everywhere, squeezed in among the renovation of the Denver Pavilions.downtown-denver-arts-fest-construction-may-2009 The art started this way for me: large landscapes, which you’d expect from an art fair in Colorado; metal wall hangings like sheaves of wheat; and photographs of horses, taken all over the United States but mostly in Colorado and back East, where Susan Williams used to live.

I was curious how much the artists were selling in this economy, so I stopped at a booth displaying ceramic objects painted with birds and asked the artist, Peggy Crago, if she birded. She said she doesn’t, but she likes to paint them. Saturday had been slow for her, but she said a festival can pick up anytime. She should know: she’s been exhibiting at the Downtown Denver Arts Festival for 11 years, since it was called the Celebrate Colorado Artists Festival.peggy-crago-may-2009

Sean Brown didn’t want me to take pictures of his delightful ceramic birds perched on paintbrushes. Given that his work was hanging in public, I thought his attitude was ridiculous. At the next booth, I just went ahead and took a picture of this stunning $14,000 sculpture by James LaCasse.james-la-casse-mandolin-may-2009

Some other beauties: Marvin Blackmore‘s intricately painted Southwestern pots; Kristin De Santis‘s metal relief paintings (oils on aluminum); and Karen Smith‘s painting of a woman on a couch in neutral tones, titled Waiting for Her Date. If I’d had $1,100 burning a hole in my pocket, I’d have bought it on the spot.

Just as it began to sprinkle, I found myself at Diane Harty Millinery (hurray for a user-friendly website!). I watched her work a hat and tried on a few of her creations. I vowed I’d get one of her hats before the summer was up.

And that was half the festival at most. Even so, the Downtown Denver Arts Festival is more manageable than the Cherry Creek Arts Festival, which happens over the Fourth of July weekend in the Cherry Creek section of Denver.

As I was writing this entry, I came to two conclusions: Artists really don’t know how to make websites; “Click to Enter” is so yesterday and annoying. And I like the Denver Pavilions better with the streets blocked off: downtown-denver-arts-fest-overhead-view-may-2009it seems like more of an organic whole.

Downtown Denver Museums: Firefighters Museum

Downtown Denver Firefighters Museum May 2009Denver Firefighters Museum
1326 Tremont Place
upper downtown Denver
303-892-1436
Admission: $6
Hours: closed Sunday and holidays. Open every other day 10 to 4.
Bus directions: From Market Street Station, take the 16th Street Mall shuttle up to Tremont and walk southwest. Any bus that goes to the corner of Broadway and Colfax, such as the 7, will also get pretty close.

When I visited the Denver Firefighters Museum (DFM) last Saturday (before I went to the Five Points Jazz Festival), I started with the video guide, which advised visitors to speak quietly and forbade them to run. Alas, the family playing in the fire truck was breaking all the rules, their voices echoing in the open room, but it was pleasant noise, if a little deafening at times.

I spent two hours at the museum and barely made it to the second floor. I liked the DFM a lot. It’s a family-friendly museum, Downtown Denver Firefighters Museum wagons May 2009though I think young children would like it best. After I saw a little girl calling 9-1-1 on the plastic phone and saying, “My house is on fire” in a serious voice, I just had to do that myself. It made me feel all emotional. Then I turned around to face a pair of teenage girls. I was mortified.

In the early days of firefighting in Denver, before the 1870s, the volunteers’ motto was “We Raze to Save.” In other words, there wasn’t too much they could do about a fire except to pull down the burning building to keep the fire from spreading to adjacent structures.

And there wasn’t much protective gear until the 1920s, when equipment developed for miners made its way to firefighters. Before that, early firefighters could only hope their beards would protect them. When they had to go into a smoke-filled room, they would wet the beard and clench it between their teeth, thus filtering the smoke.

I learned such things and many more at the DFM, which is not too far from West Colfax, the Denver Mint, other government buildings, and hotels such as the Sheraton. It occupies Denver Station 1, which, oddly enough, was the second Station 1.ffm-exterior-may-2009 In 1909 it replaced the first Station 1, and once Denverites’ safety from fires was ensured by the brand-spanking-new station, the city tore down the old one and built the Pioneer Monument at Colfax and Broadway in 1910. So the next time you’re standing by the Denver Post building and looking at that statue, remember that was the location of the first fire station in Denver.

Since 1975, Station 1 has been located at Colfax and Speer. The old station became the museum, and one of its strategies for survival was to run a restaurant on the second floor (sadly, now closed).

This photograph is a detail from a hand-drawn pumper, Downtown Denver Firefighters Museum pumper detail May 2009purchased in 1867, which required 15 men to pull it and 15 men at a time to pump it. The DFM has several different fire wagons, from ladder wagons to the steam engines used from the 1880s to the 1920s to more modern engines.

Downtown Denver Off the 16th Street Mall

Trinity downtown Denver church 2009

A word of advice to people exploring downtown Denver: get off the 16th Street Mall. Some great things go on there, but more interesting, more local things happen elsewhere.

I was crossing the apex of upper downtown Denver after visiting the Denver Firefighter’s Museum (more on that in a later post) and found nothing but government buildings and hotels like the Sheraton and parking lots.

Green Fine Salad Company was closed, so I inhaled tomato soup and salad greens from the Corner Bakery (a lot like a Panera Bread) and headed over to Trinity United Methodist Church, Denver’s first church, at the corner of Broadway and 18th Avenue and Tremont. The church was originally established in 1859, a year after Denver incorporated, but the modern Gothic building shown here, Trinity United Methodist Church Denver 2009designed by Robert Roeschlaub, held its first service at Christmastime in 1888.

Trinity is famous for its organ, which has more than 4,000 pipes. My husband went to church there once as a child (his parents are Methodist), and I believe he got to play the organ.Trinity downtown Denver church organ 2009

Just across Broadway is the Brown Palace, which received its first guest in August 1892, almost four years after the church held its first service. At that time it was on the edge of downtown Denver, to put it mildly.

The Brown Palace is Denver’s only Mobil Four-Star and AAA Four-Diamond hotel. I noted this unusual fact from the website: “The hotel’s original artesian well is located 720 feet deep beneath the lobby floor and still provides water to every faucet in the hotel.” Notice how it carefully does not say “all the water”?

The Brown Palace is one of several locations in Denver where you can have afternoon tea. And if you go in January, you will have your tea in the presence of a champion steer in honor of the National Western Stock Show’s Junior Auction of Livestock Champions.

Brown Palace Denver hotels 2009I have never stayed at the Brown Palace, but my husband and I did consider it as a wedding location in 2002. In the interview (and who was interviewing whom was anyone’s guess), Todd was put off by the revelation that we would not be tasting the food in advance.

“How will we know if it’s good?” he asked.

Stunned by our lack of respect for the hotel’s reputation, the wedding coordinator sputtered, and I, in full-on bride mode, was mortified. Todd was right, of course, and anyway I never did like the hotel’s décor, with several loud patterns clashing in every room.

The Brown Palace offers free guided historical tours every Wednesday and Saturday at 2 pm. Reservations are required. Private tours can also be arranged.

Cinco de Mayo in Denver

Cotton candy, Cinco de Mayo, Denver 2009Cinco de Mayo in downtown Denver was the third festival I attended last Saturday, after International Migratory Bird Day in Boulder and the Colorado Chocolate Festival at the Merchandise Mart on 58th. True to my intentions, I had several donuts in Boulder, multiple samples of ganache at the Chocolate Festival, and two tacos midafternoon.

On the 7 from the Merchandise Mart to downtown Denver, we traveled from suburbia-cum-industrial-areas through what I think was northern Curtis Park, with its stately old houses a little run down, to Uptown and ultimately to Colfax. The bus driver detoured around fenced-off Civic Center Park, where Cinco de Mayo took place, and offered to let me off in the middle of Lincoln Avenue, but when I peeked out, a large truck was charging down that lane. I decided I could wait.

The first thing I noticed about Cinco de Mayo was how packed it was within that encircling fence.Cinco de Mayo crowd shot, Denver 2009 The second thing I noticed was the large number of families. At times, the crowd came to a complete stop, strollers paused, and there seemed to be nowhere to go but straight up. Then the dam burst and we all pushed on through.

My first order of business was trying to get a crowd shot to add to one of my Squidoo lenses that details Denver’s ethnic demographics. Have you ever tried to get a crowd shot that includes 7 white people, 2–3 Latinos, and 1 African American? Without posing people, that is? In any case, I noticed that the crowd at Cinco de Mayo was much more diverse than the typical crowd on the 16th Street Mall.

Then it was time for some food that didn’t involve sweets. I thought Taqueria JaliscoTaqueria Jalisco, Cinco de Mayo, Denver 2009 looked promising and stepped up to order two tacos for $3, which is pretty cheap for festival food. I got to use some of my limited Spanish while asking for 1 barbacoa and 1 adobaba. The green chile and pico de gallo weren’t as hot as I’d feared—in fact, a great deal less—and the tacos lasted me until dinner time.

Vendor booths circled the park, so I started at Colfax and Broadway and ended up back there more than an hour later, having passed belt bucklesBelt buckles, Cinco de Mayo, Denver 2009 and several hundred knock-off Coach bags and a girl playing tennis in between booths and mobiles and Mexican flagsMexican flags, Cinco de Mayo, Denver 2009 and more food boothsFood boths, Cinco de Mayo, Denver 2009 and an entire section of nonprofits until I found this woman with the sombrero traipsing along in front of the Capitol. It was quite a feat to keep up with her; she navigated the crowd as if she were water and it was a streambed.Woman wearing sombrero in front of Capitol, Cinco de Mayo, Denver 2009

In the center of the park, festival sponsors had set up house, beyond the garden beds waiting for flowers and in between the cover band Wide Open and the large band in the Greek amphitheater, which I’m going to guess was Los Profetas del Norte or Los Nietos. While watching the latter at a safe distance (for my ears, that is), I saw a trio of boys all dressed up in Mexican cowboy boots and matching belts and cowboy hats. I have to say, Cinco de Mayo gets people into their best shoes.Mexican cowboy boots, Cinco de Mayo, Denver 2009

In fact, more people dress up for Cinco de Mayo than just about any street festival I’ve ever seen. And then there was this woman, the dance instructor, who has a lot more guts than I do in the wardrobe department.Dance teacher, Cinco de Mayo, Denver 2009

The only thing I regret is that I missed the Mariachi Mass on Mother’s Day. Now that might get me back to church again.

Downtown Denver Restaurants: Bayou Bob’s

bayou-bobs-exterior-downtown-denver-20091Bayou Bob’s Restaurant and Bar
1635 Glenarm Place
Upper downtown, Denver
303-573-6828
Bus directions: from Market Street Station, take the free shuttle up 16th Street to Glenarm. Bayou Bob’s is next to the Paramount Theater and near the Pavilions.

After the Green Festival, Todd and I headed out to Bayou Bob’s for dinner. The next day I would be succumbing to the Eat to Live diet (1 lb. each raw and cooked vegetables, 1 cup beans, 1 oz. nuts, and 4 fresh fruits daily), so fried food sounded like the proper sendoff.

There is nothing at Bayou Bob’s on the Eat to Live diet, not even the house salads. But we didn’t bother with those. I ordered jambayala with green beans Acadien, Bayou Bob's jambalaya, 2009which was suitable spicy and gooey and loaded with sausage and chicken. Amazingly enough, the portion was just right.

The hush puppy was crispy but not mind-blowing like one I had at Brunet’s in Baton Rouge.

Todd ordered friend shrimp and mashed potatoes with cream gravy. The gravy had a little too much white pepper, but the potatoes, mashed with the skin, were creamy.Bayou Bob's friend shrimp and mashed potatoes, Denver 2009

The gumbo could have been spicier, in my opinion, but it does look pretty in this picture. As you have no doubt noticed, food presentation is not Bayou Bob’s strong point.Bayou Bob's gumbo, Denver 2009

Todd claims the fried shrimp at Bayou Bob’s is the best he’s ever had. He said there were only a couple of places in Louisiana that measured up. The shrimp I ate was tender; the batter was crisp and not too thick—what’s not to like?

Bayou Bob’s is a vinyl-covered-booth kind of place, with lots of windows that allow you to watch passersby if you can’t think of anything to say (or you’re dining alone).

Now that I think about it, Denver has quite a few Cajun/Creole restaurants. If you want elegance, you could try Gumbo’s in LoDo. Another home-grown favorite is Lucile’s, with house restaurants in Denver, Boulder, Longmont, and Fort Collins.

I know of two chains:Pappadeaux in Westminster and south Denver and a Bubba Gump Shrimp Company 4 blocks from Bayou Bob’s. As far as atmosphere goes, Lucile’s and Pappadeaux are pretty much opposites—Pappadeaux is one huge room with glass and dark wood accents, and Lucile’s is crammed into a worn old house. Bubba Gump’s main claim to fame is that it allows you to harass your waitron.

You wouldn’t eat at a chain when you could eat at a local, family-owned place, now, would you?
Bayou Bob's Seafood & Southern Cookin on Urbanspoon

Green Festival in Downtown Denver: What Up?

When I walked into the Exhibit Hall at the Green Festival in downtown Denver, I wasn’t sure what would greet me.

There was this guy at the entrance to the Convention Center—is he a giant blue stalker?Convention Center Blue Bear Denver 2009

Once in the Exhibit Hall, I looked to my left and saw the booth for Sustainable Industries magazine, Sustainable Industries magazine, booth at Denver Green Festival 2009and I thought, That sounds like something I should read for Restoration Nation.

Restoration Nation is an idea I’ve been dreaming about for several years: How do we change the current “free market” economy to “an economy that restores”? Not that I believe the two are mutually exclusive, but the focus of the first is consumption, and the focus of the second would be restoration of lands.

I signed up to get the magazine, just to see if it would give me any ideas. And I went to see local author David Wann (Affluenza, Superbia!), whose talk, “Culture Shift: Creating a Restoration Economy,” sounded promising.David Wann at Denver Green Festival 2009

Wann gave his audience a lot of information, much of which I had heard before. Although he liked the name Restoration Nation, he didn’t answer the question two paragraphs up.

But the next two talks I wanted to see were canceled. I began to feel that someone was hexing my Green Festival. Hawkquest volunteer with owl, Denver 2009I wasn’t enjoying it as much as I’d expected. All the information and products presented at the festival seemed like a bunch of loose threads, and what I really wanted was to gather them together somehow into Restoration Nation.

But maybe that desire to corral all the disparate threads of what we call the “Green Economy” or the New Economy is misguided. Maybe a change in our idea of what the market should do (which is what Restoration Nation requires) need not come from one direction. Maybe Restoration Nation already exists. After all, isn’t this the kind of thing I’m looking for?Beetle Kill pine products

Only I want an entire economy of it. Maybe the website I want to set up should just ask questions, since that’s all I seem to do.

There was a lot of stuff at the Green Festival exhibit hall. I couldn’t keep track of the sustainably made purses and hemp clothing lines (though I intend to check out Vital Hemptations) and books and even these to-go containers (the button says “Reduce Your Forkprint”: To Go Ware at Denver Green Festival, 2009

I found it fascinating and, ultimately, exhausting. And about that time I remembered one of David Wann’s lines: “Green overconsumption is still overconsumption.”

But I bought the 83% organic lotion from Boulder anyway.

Everything for Wine, and More

equipement de vin exterior, Larimer Square, Denver 2008équipement de vin
1412 Larimer Square, downtown Denver
720-946-3287

It was embarrassing, I confess.

The proprietor of équipement de vin, Cheryl Webster, caught me in the wine cellar photographing a champagne cooler with my cell phone. I had forgotten to bring my camera to my second visit to her store and was making do with my phone.

Even if I wasn’t professional enough to ask whether I could take pictures, Cheryl was both professional and warm, handling all the customers with ease, and letting them feed carrots to her dog.

In honor of the holidays, Larimer Square was holding a “tailgate” party, with some stores offering food or drink to their customers (see the website for information about the party on December 17). Cheryl had set up some hors d’oeuvres in the wine cellar and was directing customers to go next door for beer.

Equipement de vin is an attractive, Tuscan-style store, long and narrow with echoing wood floors. When you enter, you can see all the way to the back, but displays are arranged to slow you down and entice you to consider the wares. Everywhere you turn you find wine racks or glassware or bottle cozies or just about anything else you can imagine having to do with wine or entertaining.

On the tall black shelves across from the register, which display color-coordinated sets of candles and tableware, I discovered the perfect coasters, made of black slate, to complement my blue slate tables with wrought-iron frames.

Cheryl was dealing with several sets of customers while I was in the store, but she took the time to answer this rather pointed question: “How do stores make money when most of their stock is fairly inexpensive? Is it just volume?”

Well, yes, she said, but her store also sells furniture, wine-themed art (a popular item), and glassware, including exquisite decanters that cost as much as $300.

My next question was about “nosing” wines, a subject that has vexed me for years. She suggested a way to develop my nose using the store’s wine-tasting guide:

1. Throw a wine-tasting party focusing on one varietal.

2. Find a small amount of every item listed under that varietal on her store’s guide (blackberries or spices for merlot, for example) and put each item in a separate glass.

3. Smell the item, and then smell the wine and see if there’s a match.

She solved my problem, and I bought the wine-tasting guide, a wine and food matching wheel, and the coasters.

Equipement de vin offers tastings of Colorado wines Thursday through Saturday. Cheryl’s cellar was full of Colorado wines that were new to me. I’m looking forward to doing a wine tasting this weekend.

***

After a long day of visiting stores in Denver on Saturday, it was a relief to return to équipement de vin and hang out at the bar in the back with Matthew, who knows a lot about wine and is a writer to boot. We tasted the Whitewater Hill Riesling (a wine made in Grand Junction, Colorado) and four red wines from Bonacquisti, a winery at 46th and Pecos (the grapes are grown on the Western Slope). Our favorite was the Riesling; I didn’t love any of the reds, but the Delagua Red (mostly merlot) and the cabernet franc were my favorites.

Among the things I learned from him:

1. Merlots are fermented with the grape skins for only a short time in order to preserve the silky texture of the wine.

2. Merlots don’t spend much time in oak.

3. When I perceive a “burnt” smell in a wine, it has to do with how deeply the oak barrels in which it was aged are toasted.

4. To properly smell a wine, tilt the glass and smell from the “bottom” of the glass to the “top.”

5. He also explained the difference between aroma and bouquet, which I can’t remember. Another tip he gave me (so I can remember more of this stuff): take wine classes at International Wine Guild in Denver.